Rectorseal 83114 2 EZ 113B Trap Kit with Brush

I ordered this as my mother's air handler overflowed years ago and the resulting damage was almost 3K$. I watched several youtube videos and it seemed like a small investment that could save a lot of hassle and money down the line, and even though insurance covered most of her loss, it is never a good day when you notice water leaking through your ceiling.I bought a pair of Husky PVC cutters for about 20 to 25 dollars since anything that limits my time in an attic during the summer in Florida is always appreciated; makes this job easier although you can use a hacksaw if you want. I also bought a 2 foot length of 3/4 PVC pipe which is a pretty standard diameter for a residential condensate line, a 2 container package of the Oakey purple color primer & the clear glue used for connecting PVC pipe (about $8), a PVC elbow, and PVC "T", and 2 or 3 PVC Couplings. (All 3/4" PVC)I cut the A/C condensate line in two places, a few inches from the air handler and a few inches down the condensate line. I dry fit a 90 degree PVC elbow on the remaining PVC pipe coming out of the air handler, cut off about 3" from my 2 foot of new PVC pipe, connected that to the elbow, then dry fit this new Rectorseal kit on to that, cut off about 4" from my new PVC pipe that I dry fit to the rest of the condensate line (with a coupling fitting) that leads to the outside of the house. Basically, I just cut off PVC pipe as I went along just making sure that when a Coupling PVC fitting attached 2 pieces of PVC pipe, it was long enough to go at least an inch into the Coupling PVC fitting. Also, used the primer and glue to attach the see-through part to the Rectorseal PVC parts. When I was satisfied that everything fit well, I just disconnected the pieces and applied the primer and then glue to each fitting/pipe, slipped them together and turned each about 1/2" so they sealed well. The glue dries pretty quickly. I later decided to put in a "T" PVC fitting a few inches down the line from this new Rectorseal Trap Kit and attached a PCV pipe about 5" long pointing upward toward the roof which I left uncapped. Apparently, many techs recommend this as a vent so the water flows easier down the condensate line. This all sounds more complicated than it is; the bottom line is you want a condensate line/pipe with a "P trap" that fills with water in the bottom (on this set-up, the see-thru plastic tube allows you to see this water) so the A/C can't suck air from the attic or outside the dwelling through the condensate line/pipe, and at the same time, you want that same condensate line/pipe to always allow water to flow from the A/C air handler drain pan via a slight slope to a drain or some place outside the dwelling.This Trap Kit was useful to me as I wanted to flush the condensate line with white vinegar to prevent any blockages from forming, but there was no port for me to pour it into near the air handler where it would flow down the pipe to the outside. I also wanted to clean the [art of the pipe nearest the air handler to make sure no obstructions form at the very beginning on the pipe; this kit with its 3 ports allows me to do all that and also to see that the trap is full of water thus creating the necessary seal so air from the outside or attic isn't sucked into the air handler. There are many videos out there that explain this better and why this trap kit is an inexpensive, but valuable aid in making sure your condensate line can be flushed and your A/C doesn't leak condensate through your ceiling one day. Simple project that is well with the time to do it.

My HVAC system is a high efficiency system that recommended a minimum of 2" between the bottom of the two pipes and a minimum of 2" below the egress pipe.Finding such a p trap was difficult to find. However, I was able to use a 3/4" coupler to modify mine to meet this requirement.Installation was straight forward with some PVC primer and glue.

Being from Florida, condensate line issues are a HUGE problem. Our AC's remove a lot of moisture from our warm tropical climate. There are so many problems down here with condensate lines I struggle to think of anyone I know who hasnt had one back up or give them trouble at least once. One backup can cost you thousands of dollars or even tens of thousands. Why risk it? I too have struggled with my condensate line since I bought my house. My old line ran under the garage floor and I continually had to blow it out. I purchased this little trap and re-ran my line. I cant say for sure if this trap alone is responsible for my now trouble free system but it for sure doesn't hurt. I love how the trap is clear so I can easily monitor any issues and the included brush and multiple access ports makes cleaning it super easy and allows for a more thorough cleaning. I would venture to guess I see 80% of the condensate lines down here that are installed incorrectly. Either no trap at all, no T vent, or T vent on the wrong side of the trap. Do yourself a favor if you are having condensate line problems and do some googling and make sure yours is done correctly. Long story short you should have this P trap as close to the air handler as possible. With the vent between the trap and outside side NOT between the trap and the air handler. It should be air tite between the air handler and trap this keeps the coil side under positive pressure. Otherwise you will be sucking warm moist air and anything else straight into the air and if your unit is in the garage like mine its an even bigger safety issue. good slope on the drain after the trap (more the better) and your condensate drain issues should be gone for good. I find it hard to believe one of these isnt on EVERY singe AC down here. I actually think that a "CLEAR" trap should be code. However code does require a trap and I rarely see one so... Sure there are some that have their AC in the attic and the clear trap does very little but even if your AC is in a non visula location the cleaning ports that allow you cleaning access in every which way makes it a smart purchase. The price vs. function for this is just makes it one of those NO BRAINER purchases.

This product is super effective and convenient

Well made. Nice to view water in trap

Worked good. However the pipes are not as tight fitting as I would like. I glued them and the glue took a long time to get hard and it just seems like the fit is not tight. I woudl have expected it to be like PVC where it is a snug fit and water could run through as long as it was not pressured. Even just small condesnate going through makes a big leak. I glued it and it fixed it but it makes me question how well it is sealed.

Built in clear view of the drain water and comes with a clean out brush for the trap

This is better than a standard condensate line "P Trap" because it is clear and provides a visual check. The fitting is not as tight as normal PVC fittings so it will leak slightly if left "dry fitted" for service. It has to be glued up. They also make a deep trap but that was not available on amazzon. A trap "water seal" is vital on a negative pressure side drain. Remember to fill it with water to "prime" it before use if on a negative side installation. I was surprised how quickly sediment built up. A solid trap would give no indication of impending plug up and disaster. The Rectorseal emergency shutoff also was installed on an adjacent "T". I did not have much space for a standard trap, this fit the bill.

nice product easy to install

Good trap for heat pump condensate drain. Please make sure you use quality glue and as another review pointed out, let it sit upside down while the glue sets. That will allow the glue to harden in the gap. If you don’t allow the glue to set and harden before use, you risk breaking the seal and then you will have a leak as I witnessed with the plumber…..excellent product and highly recommended.

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Works great. All in one piece. Just adjust angles and glue togther.

Easy to install. Good value.