RUSSELL/EDEL 639580 Speed Bleeder

I'm an old hand at pulling wrenches, although I only do my own brake work, not commercially. Since the days when all four corners had drum brakes, I remember one of the most aggravating and dreaded tasks was bleeding the system. Not that it was that, hard, but good help was hard to come by, and it took two to do it right.This is so wonderful, I had to show them off to friends who are professional mechanics, who were unaware of them. This model (639580) is for the calipers on the front brakes, and this review was written for the Model no. 639520 Speed Bleeder for the rear drum brakes on the same vehicle. My enthusiasm applies to both products.I had to replace a wheel cylinder on my old Tahoe, (all my vehicles are old enough to vote), and after I got the new wheel cylinder in and the brake reassembled and adjusted, I removed the stock bleeder screw and replaced it with a speed bleeder (The Russell 639520 for the 11 inch GM drum brake of that vintage). I gently ran the bleeder in until it touched bottom with a deep well socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet, backed off 1/2 turn, and re-filled the reservoir on the master cylinder. Five pumps of the pedal later, I pulled the catch hose and jar off the bleeder screw, tightened it up, and topped off the reservoir, and was done!Just that quick. No waiting on someone to come help with it, no hollering back and forth ("push down, hold, (Huh, what's you say?) pump it again and hold", etc. )Frankly, I have a small herd of vehicles, all a couple decades old or older, and I am plumb excited about these.You are supposed to bleed the brake system every couple of years to eliminate old brake fluid and any moisture that may have worked its way into the system, and this will make that a breeze!!IMPORTANT:Let me note also, that I blasted out the open end of the bleeder screw with WD-40 after I had tightened it, before I put on the cap, because brake fluid attracts water, and water inevitably invites corrosion. That way the check valve will survive for the next time.It is a great time/labor saver and I have already recommended this product to others.

This Part Number fit both my 1996 Tahoe 4WD Front Disc Brake Calipers and my 1979 Eldorado Calipers that are on the back.Russell doesn't list the Eldorado Calipers and the Part Number listed for my the Fronts was incorrect.It's a little curious that they're 10mm-1.5 threads, but the Wrench Size is 7/16" I guess that really is 11mm, though, isn't it?As always:YMMVUse at your own risk.Should only be installed by a Qualified Mechanic.Your Warranty is now Void.

There is no thread sealant on the bleeders as shown in the photos. I called up Russell tech support and they confirmed that thread sealant is no longer applied to the bleeders. I paid more for the Russells because of the sealant - it makes bleeding easier as air isn't sucked in around the bleeder threads. Disappointed. Oh, and change the PICTURE!

On a 2000 Sierra, ext cab, the rear caliper wrench required is a 10mm. When you replace them with the Russell self bleeder you will need an 11mm wrench. Other than that, they work slick. And if I ever want to purge the brake line this is the easiest way to do it.

these fit my front calipers on my 2004 GMC 2500 Yukon XL w Quadrasteer and work effortlessly bleeding, after a major brake line failure and full line replacement.Although the original bleeders were rusted and deteriorated, I was able to remove all 4, had to use visegrips on the front 2 to remove them, being so deteriorated the standard size wrench was to large, and the other was rounding off. I had sprayed pentatrating oil 2-3 times on original bleaders while removing/ reinstalling brake lines.Front and rear bleeders are the same for my 2500 w QuadrasteerDon't go by Amazon's website stating which vehicle they fit, do your homework by checking part numbers on another website I removed a rear bleeder and matched it up with the fronts. Website stated they were finer thread. - but i had to wait 5 days for another set to finish the job.

I've been using these for years. They are inexpensive way for one person to bleed their brakes.

I bought these for a 2000 Chevy Blazer. With he integral check valves, I no longer need to get someone in my house to take the time to bleed the brakes with me (I guess that's the whole point of this product, though, isn't it?) One thing I will point out is that even the Russell product site doesn't list part numbers for the Blazer after 1999. However, the two part numbers needed are the same as Tahoe 2000-up.

These things are great! I have seen them for years and finally bought a pair. After my first use I bought sets for my other old cars. If your thinking about it, DO IT! Turns a tedious two man job into a simple one man job. Had a hand held vacuum pump it worked pretty good, then it broke, I bought a new and different brand it would not do the job, bought a $125 bleeder that runs off compressed air. You had to be very careful not to pull air around the bleeder, it was a fight really. Install these, loosen 1/4 turn as instructed, attached the recovery cup from the hand held pump and slowly depress the peddle a few times (5-10) tighten and move to the next wheel, if your quick 5 minutes and the job is don, wheels off and car on jack stand already of course. These will go in every car I own the first time I have to bleed the brakes. Highly recommended by this hot rodder!