RinnaiRU130iN Condensing Tankless Hot Water Heater, 7 GPM, Natural Gas, Indoor Installation

Installation is straight forward. Getting electrical ran and fittings were the most time consuming. Endless supply of hot water but it does take some time to get on the other side of a 1,500 Sq ft home. I should have got a unit with a built in recirculating pump.

We had a Noritz N-063S that was having problems after 12 years of use. We replaced it with this Rinnai RU130iN and it's working great. The old unit pulled in the combustible air for room where it was installed. The new unit uses concentric piping and pulls the combustible air from the outside through the same 5" vent pipe used for the exhaust (exhaust through an inner 3" pipe and combustible air for the outer 5" pipe). And since it's a high efficiency, condensing unit, the exhaust is warm/not hot so you can use plastic piping. I used the Rinnai 223176PP and it worked perfectly for my installation. The only issue I've had thus far is getting the unit to work with the Control-R wireless controller. Otherwise it was easy to install as a replacement, easy to vent, and has worked great thus far.

Easy to install

With this version the ventings is much easier and more forgiving. Because the exhaust gases are much cooler you have many more options as to how to vent the unit.I simply connected mine to the old water heater vent with an adapter - no difficult drilling through concrete walls.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWJW37P6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Everything looked fine until the sealed heater was opened in the basement to find out it was heavily damaged and obviously sent out by the factory.

I installed this myself. Not super easy for a homeowner but the directions were straight forward. Works great.

We are heavy water user and never rune out of hot water. We probably use around 35$ to 55$ of natural Gas per monte to run it. The only disadvantage is it can lower the water pressure slightly on the hot side... If you dont want that to happen you need to bey a hier BTU unite i personally wanted to save and use less natural GAS the pressure is stile good if you just use one thing at a time. Would bey again good product. Dont forgetter to max the temperature on the display other wise water feels to cold wont affect the GAS consumption that much.

We have 6 kids and had my adult son and his wife living with us. So all In all we had 9 people 2 dogs and a lizard in this house.I Installed it myself converting from a 40 gallon tank heater. I would not say it was a breeze but it also wasn’t that bad. To be fair I am a mechanical engineer and am handy around the house. I would not recommend this as a DIY if you have problems with IKEA furniture. You will need to understand vent sizing calculations to determine if you need a 3” or 2” vent. Depending on where you put it you will need to be comfortable punching holes in the exterior of your house and installing the vent and intake in an appropriate manner to not cause a hazard. I had to run 3/4” gas lines as well because the old heater had 1/2” gas lines. (Don’t try and get by with a smaller line even if your neighbor said you can). Also as an FYI make sure you have a 3/4” full bore valve. Lots of gas line valves say 3/4” but only have a 1/2” bore on the ball valve. This will create a restriction in flow and cause you to throttle your gas flow unintentionally potentially causing issues in the combustion chamber during high gas demand times.All in all it was worth it. Before purchasing I would recommend having the system fully thought out.1. Gas flow - do you have 3/4” or larger gas lines you can tap into. What parts will you need to get the gas line to where you need it (valves, tees, reducers, flex line, fittings…)2. Venting and intake - where will you vent the PVC pipe out of the space. (Do not vent into galvanized pipe it will corrode out and damage your house) you will need to maintain drainage of the exhaust line condensed gasses. How many elbows and tees will you need, 3” or 2” pipe or are you using the 2 in one pipe.3. Venting and intake out of the house - there are safe configuration and unsafe configuration of how to exhaust the gasses out of your house. You also need to consider how to get clean intake air in. Don’t kill your family with CO because you were too cheap to design your system correctly.4. Drainage - this system will require a drainage system for the condensed gasses to drip down. During peak operation this can be a substantial amount of liquid.5. Power - you will need a GFI protected 110V outlet close to the mounting location.Do your homework and do it right and it will go smoothly. If you can’t do it right then hire someone to do it.

I installed the water heater in a 12x8 shed where I installed water filters, UV, washing machine and shower stall for our campers for the past 5 months. Used it daily with a 20lb propane tank. Conversion was easy. Switching propane tanks sometimes causes air long that takes a moment to expel, so bigger tanks would be a good idea in my case for next year.