Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series)
R**N
Unparalleled clarity and insight for climbers of all kinds
I've read several climbing guides at this point and was surprised at the quality of this book. Rock Climbing Anchors has advice and insights that no other book has touched on. Everything from rigging anchors with overly long cordelettes to multi-directional tricks to rigging without certain pieces of equipment. The book covers a profusion scenarios of which a climbers should be aware. The discussions are clear and concise while leaving out no important detail. The author manages to balance detail with simplicity so well you hardly notice how much you've learned.His explanation of the technical side of climbing forces and mechanics is fantastic. The math is available for those who want the details and the essentials are boiled down for those who don't. He has more info on the how's and why's of rock protection gear than any other source. This book was the first time I really understood what the interception angle on a cam meant.Beyond the critical safety knowledge this book imparts, it is full of helpful tips to make your life easier when climbing. How to coil cordelette, how to make short adjustments to slings in an anchor, handy checklists for various activities, etc.This book is by far the best resource for outdoor climbers.
B**T
great to have this in writing
You can't learn this subject from a book, but you can get close.Setting safe anchors is probably the most important aspect of outdoor climbing. You shouldn't try to do it until you've had hands on experience under the supervision of an experienced climber. This book, however will prepare you and reinforce your hands on experience. Read it beforehand to get familiar with terminology and general ideas. Read it afterward to clear up questions and help you remember key points.I was worried the e-version wouldn't work well as a reference book, but the table of contents works well enough. You may find yourself skipping back and forth some because some concepts are mentioned in one spot and not explained until later in the book. Using notes and bookmarks would be a good idea.Overall, great book for it's purpose. If someone comes up with a better way to organize this content it would be better.
R**R
No substitute for experience or instruction, but about as close as it gets
This is a fairly comprehensive book on anchors and pro placement. The author is (or was; rest in peace, Craig) a mechanical engineer and member of the AMGA board, and was the inventor of the Big Bro. Don't know what a Big Bro is? Buy the book and find out!Though the book does not go into all the convoluted ways you can potentially set up anchors, it provides enough of a base to allow one to reasonably expect their protection to not fail when it is needed most.
S**R
Perfect for new lead climber
This book would be perfect for a new lead climber. I climbed for years and then took several years off, so am reading it to catch up on new techniques/equipment. It is well written, but a fairly antiseptic read. I am currently half way through it and so far I have learned one or two new things.
J**N
A must have for any climber
I bought this book along with "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills". And I just want to say that these books are terrific. A definite must for the bookshelf of anyone interested in climbing.This book is well written and has many illustrations to go along with the descriptions of more anchoring systems than I knew existed. The only down side to this book is that some of the photographs do not show the intended information as clearly as they maybe should.Bottom line: Buy it, you won't regret it!
A**C
Trad Safety
As a once solid big-wall climber, I found this book useful as a reminder on all of the important "how-to's". Also, if you are training a Trad leader, let them read this.
N**N
Perfect
Great explanation of complex techniques involved about climbing anchors. You have great pics with notes both for proper and inproper anchor settings so you can get familiar with safe stuff and also with potentialy dangerous settings.After each section you got real homework with 10-15 exercises so you can repeat and practice what you read.It's really worth reading and practise.
D**K
Great book for any climber
This book reviews all of the most important aspects for anyone looking to set up a top rope, place protection and build an anchor.It is great information for anyone who wants to start getting into trad climbing. it will give you the confidence to get out there and practice your placements and anchor building so that you are ready when you go on your multi pitch route.
P**R
great
This book has good pictures to guide you if you need to practice. Its imformative and helpful. If you are doing your rock climbing teaching certificate it is a real help.
A**L
does what it says on the cover
A very wide ranging tour through the delights of setting anchors and placing gear. excellent for experienced climbers and mountaineers, and useful for those new to the outdoor game.Another excellent book from these publishers, highly recommended.
W**S
A great guide
An awesome, no nonsense guide to building anchors. I have learned so much from this book and continue to reference it. I bring it to crags to practice more advanced set ups and friends are always borrowing it. There are examples of good and bad placements and thoughtful comments throughout. Indispensable.
G**L
Excelente, recomendo!
Ainda não li o livro inteiro, mas muito recomendado para quem já escala e quer aprofundar os conhecimentos, iniciar na escalada tradicional, em móvel...O livro tem muito conteúdo sobre o assunto (ancoragens), com muitas fotos/ilustrações, e uma boa didática.Estou gostando muito, recomendo.
S**K
excellent reference
If you are into climbing...this is one of the bibles you ought to read and own.
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1 month ago
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