Oatey39130 Ice Maker Box, No Size, Brass

If you have to replace one that's already installed, you have to cut out drywall to remove and replace it.

I was looking for a housing to put in the wall that I could use not as an ice-maker supply line but rather as a drain for my Water Softener's brine tank. I was able to drill out the bottom hole to accept a 3/4" MPT (Male Pipe Thread) copper adapter with a sweat connection on the other end secured with a pair of 3/4" EMT lock nuts. This let me insert a 5/8-inch outer diameter PE tube (see: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UH4JD2/ ) that connected from the brine tank directly into the hole in the housing which I plumbed to an existing copper line that led to the side of the house.It was easy enough to mount the housing in between a pair of 2x4 studs to make sure that it did not go anywhere and the 5/8" drywall fit over the box easy enough and allowed me to snap the cover in place. Looks very nice.The attached photo shows the enlarged hole to accommodate a 3/4" MPT to copper sweat adapter. I used EMT lock nuts on both sides to secure the box to the pipe and also enlarged the three holes on the housing to accommodate the SPAX #8 2" T-star screws that I used to secure it to a 2x4. For added stability I drove the 2 nails into a stud on the left. The picture also shows a sample of the 5/8" OD PE tubing I bought here on Amazon.

I bought this valve with the intention of cutting it into the wall behind my refrigerator for the ice-maker connection. However, when I received the shipment, I could hear something rattling in the box, which turned out to be one of the plastic ears intended to hold one of the nails in place. The plastic used for the housing is a rather brittle plastic, so it (apparently) doesn't take much to break off something like this ear. I can only imagine how driving the two enclosed nails might stress each ear!What's more, the bottom nail is tough to reach with a hammer. You'll be forced to be both right-handed to drive the nail, and then drive the nail up and in, in an 11:00 direction. I can't see how the plastic will survive this operation if you miss with the hammer, something most of us will surely do at least once. And you will certainly need to first remove the valve before driving the nail, as the space between the nail and the bottom of the threaded valve is very tight.The box is also "polarized." That is, you can only use the nailing option if you are mounting the box to the right of a stud. If you need to mount to the left of a stud, you can't rotate the box 180 degrees. Nope, because then the valve is upside down --- no matching hole for the valve (and a plug) for it at the other end of the box. I can't figure out why the design is so limited. Then again, maybe you can live with the valve mounted upside down? Most of us think of a water connection as being mounted from the bottom side.The brass valve itself seems fine. My complaint is the screwy mounting options and the brittle plastic housing.Because of the broken ear, I ended up sending the unit back, and was promptly refunded the purchase price (thank you, Amazon). I think this is a very poorly designed system from Oatey.

I could not find any NSF potable certification in the listing, so I posted a question about it on Amazon. I received several responses from Amazon buyers about it and they indicated it was potable certified. I received the valve and per the box, it is not certified for potable water use because it has a low level lead content.

Nice finish to your plumbing rough-in for ice maker. I haven't put the fridge in yet but I think an angle other than straight out would be better for the water supply that comes from the top of a fridge. After sheetrock, found that the trim plate is not deep enough to reach the shutoff box so couldn't use the trim... Also had a slight drip develop before attaching PE tubing - Although probably my fault, must have melted gasket. Otherwise looks better than a saddle valve in the basement and a hose through the floor. If you have access to stud bay and rough plumbing this is the way to go. Make sure you double and triple check for finish depth when sweating the copper in.

Everyone is reporting the valve inlet is 1/2 inch male pipe threads. However, that is not correct. I needed a fitting to attach 3/8 inch tubing. Ordered SharkBite U3525LFA 1/4 in. (3/8 in. O.D.) Push-to-Connect x 1/2 in. Faucet Connector Chrome-Plated Brass Adapter. Problem solved with no leakage.

Awesome! Big difference than a plastic pipe poking out of wall.. Pipe broke 2 times and second time it was last time for that. Bought this and brought it to lowes to check. Fitment on my application.. Looks good, 2 mounting options, manufacturers instructions,durable.. But dont rely on plastic wheb tightening cock. (Huhhuhuuhuuh). Pic is not finished construction because replacing all pipe in house and still have to patch a big hole behind stove.. Was simple to install though, nailed to wall run.. Bought a braided steel line so it wouldn't crease and burst again

Product worked well. I installed (sweat) a PEX 1/2 fitting on the end to allow me to run PEX to it instead of hard copper. Only reason for 4* review was that the plastic that the main housing is made from is very brittle. When installing it's very easy to break the small ears off that hold the nail. Ended up using the nail tab instead to make sure it was sturdy!