POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust, Non-porous Protective Barrier, 16 Fluid Ounces, Silver

Hey gearheads!!I am quick to complain about products that do not live up to claims, but in this case I used a product which exceeded my expectations by far: Por-15.Our Saab is mostly rust free except for the frame rails in the front clip, and the rear crossmember (the crossmember is replaceable... /if/ I want to do a full rear suspension rebuild). Last winter before I put the Saab back on the road (a part was on backorder) I found the torque box joints in the front had thick flaking surface rust but now just seven months later the whole front frame is rusting. most "rust converter" paints are frauds and do not work. Por-15 is a multi-step system where you clean the metal with degreaser (I skipped that step as the frame only had a couple of tiny greasy spots on it), scrape off any flaking paint and loose rust, then you apply a metal prep solution that both etches and thinly plates any bare metal and converts rust into a different iron oxide forming a patina, and then you apply the rust preventer to stop the rusting process.Well I did the etching step today, agitating it with a steel brush, washed it and blew off the excess water with a leaf blower, then just went out to check it after it had time to dry. I was amazed; everywhere I had agitated it with the steel brush, the rust had either been removed down to bare metal, and where the rust was slightly deeper it was converted to a black oxide (a patina), and the bare metal sections had a very thin but visible zinc coating. This stuff actually works. and once the rust was removed I found the frame is perfectly fine.Because it has spread though I am taking the front end off to treat the sections covered by the bumper and spoiler panels then I will get a paint sprayer and paint it.if you're restoring a bike or car where rust is in the early enough stages that the metal is still solid, try Por 15. if you follow the steps like I did that are provided in reviews by people who have had good luck with it, the results will blow you away. Not only will I be able to get another winter or two out of the Saab but it will probably last a long time for whomever I give it to. That is assuming of course the frame isn't also rusting from the inside out but I have an idea on how to address that with a pressure washer, Por 15, and fluid film.for the rust preventer I chose silver because it provides more pinhole hole filling capability but fortunately that was unnecessary because I caught the rust early enough.Follow directions and you will be pleased. Be sure to agitate it and reapply the metal prep many times, keeping the parts you are treating completely soaked.

Love this stuff. Works as described but be careful to not get it in any nut threads. I was not careful and stripped three nuts that this stuff got into

Creates a hard protective coating once applied. Only time will tell if it seals out moisture and prevents rust. So far it's performed better than expected. Best preventative maintenance against planned obsolescence.

This product is awesome! Not only does it turn rust into metal, but it also leaves a hard coating paint ontop of it. Amazing product if you need rust repair on an old car, etc. I have tried many other products before this. None last a long time. But this POR-15 seems to last the longest, and is the best and hardest product.

***Stuck Lid SOLUTION***First off let me say, this rust inhibiting paint is awesome!! It is super thin and soaks into the rust bonding it. The paint when cured/dried has a nice protective finish. I used this on some roof panels that were cut with a grinder wheel vs using a nibbler. Using cutting wheel to cut metal panels is a big no no, because the edge will start to rust due to the burning heat on the protective coating. Using a metal nibbler (Milwaukee) is the only way to cut metal roof panels.Back to the lid solution/fix. if you use this paint and get any on the rim where the lid goes, you will not be able to get the lid back off because this paints bonding ability is insane, you will destroy the container trying to get the lid off. As seen in many reviews.The fix is simple. With out ever having to remove the lid.1. Get 2 roof screws (self tapping) with rubber washers.2. Get some small ball bearings (4).3. Once you have 2 screws in the top of the can (pour hole)+(Vent hole).4. Drop the 4 ball bearings in the hole so when you shake it, the ball bearings will aid in mixing the paint.

Works as intended, surprising how far it goes covers well

The price may seem high but this stuff is quality. Make sure to wear gloves and ensure the fumes are vented because this stuff doesnt come off of anything (clothes, skin, etc.) i did a full bed off repair on my 2002 tacoma and after welding repairs i prepped and coated the entire thing with por15 (silver in the bed black underneath) 2 quart size cans did an entire tacoma bed inside and under. After it dried i was very happy with it. This was the 100% most recommended product to me in order to prevent rust/ rot in prepped and/or repaired metal here in upstate NY

I have refinished this steel bench a few times. Last time was with POR 15 Rust preventer in black. It was kept outside and since I did not top coat it, it oxidized under UV exposure fairly fast to a chalky mess. Couldn't touch it without blackening your hands. I refinished it with silver Rust Preventer (again, not the top coat type) and it's going inside my garage this time - so no UV exposure. The finish was heavily pocked and pitted which always looked poor when it was black, but the silver has metallic "dust??" in it. When I applied the paint it flowed out well filling the cavities and the metallic dust meandered into really interesting patterns. I applied two coats, sanding with 120 between applications. The finish is glass-smooth and shiny. It's almost a shame I'm going to use it as a work bench now.Others posted pics of wrecked cans but mine arrived in good conditions and opened as expected with no fuss. YOU MUST STIR THIS STUFF as the metallic dust settles out of suspension to the bottom. There's a good half-inch of the stuff at the bottom. I stirred for a few minutes until the stick came out with no chunky metal gooped on it. I rolled and brushed - rolling created bubbles so I switched to brushing them out. In the end, the rolled areas I didn't brush out finally settled down and the bubbles went away, so you could probably roll it. I used 3/8" nap roller. The rolled areas took on a hammered finish and the brushed areas took on a streaky-bushed look. I'm very happy.