Shark Corp 21-2225 10-Inch Prybar and Nail Puller

This is a replacement for one that went “missing”. Very handy. A must for any toolbox.

Very strong steel, extremely versatile use in construction/handy man business. Added a bit of an edge on the wide part with bench grinder just because I have needed it in the past. Have used it extensively to the point I thought it was going to bend but it kept it's shape and did not deform. If I ever lose mine, I will buy another one immediately.

This style has been dubbed a "Molding Bar", with the flared end.I have doing my own work around houses for 30+ years, and a working carpenter for many, as well. For me, when it comes to small cracks behind delicate work the Sharks are the ones for me. I also use thick bladed puddy scrapers for less firm holds, but when I might bend the scraper, like with oak molding, The Sharks come out. The puddy knife can then go against the prying surface to keep the heal of the bar from marring pry surface. Reason being, the Shark Corp bars are ground much thinner at the flared end, but, tempered to the same strength as other brands, which I have now given or sold to others. If one style can do it better, in most of all its' features, why have the others. I have one 8" and two 10" of these flare bladed style. I also have 3 larger straight "nail pullers" of different brands, of 12" and a 15". Right tool for the right job!The flare end for molding? Yes. The other nail pulling end for finish nails? Yes. For pulling 14, 16, 18p, nails? Get a longer, 12", nail puller. You can pull longer nails by putting gradually different thicknesses of wood under the heal (90 degree end/claw side) (which I always recommend something flat 1/8" to 1/4" under the heal, "Absolutely, for finished surfaces", so you don't mar the surface the heal would pivot on.), but I have found it awkward, a few times, not grabbing the longer puller, "not readily at hand", and start pulling on a 3" nail, only to grab something else to finish.Things to compare to other brands:1) Thickness (thinner) to strength of flared end ( If you have read reviews or used a Shark, "No comparison. Shark Corp wins")2) The nail pulling jaw: How deep is the V notch in the throat? What thickness of nail can it pull and How well does it grip a nail, pulling? How thin and strong is the end of the nail puller for getting under nail heads, without gouging out much of a hole in the project wood?3) As a hole product: Compact, Tempered well (bending strength), designed very well (in all details), especially for doing molding, and other tight work involving prying small cracks.4) The flared end can be good for quick scraping in a pinch5) If the price is a dollar or two more, the Shark Corp is worth it.Where it excels for me: Hardwood floors and molding refinishing, installing inlays, doorways and custom trim, stone tiles tight to wood, etc.,... Just a few, very important, times when if you mess something up with the wrong technique (slip, mar, or indent), you may wreck the project or take a lot more time fixing.For me, I am also speaking on the professional side. This should just be a great "what ever" small pry bar for any one.

Does exactly what it’s supposed to! I used this to remove both interior and exterior window trim. I like the thinner profile of the blade which makes it easier to separate trim pieces from the wall. The nail remover also works very well. No, this is not made in Japan (the packaging says made in China), but it’s a nice tool for the money!

This has been my go-to pry bar for many years. Bought this one because I lost my original (which I have since found, hallelujah!). Still a great pry bar but you can tell the difference in quality between this one and the Japanese one. Metal at the pry end is a little thinner and not as hard. The nail pry end is not cut as evenly or cleanly. Even the paint job is sloppier.So I would buy this again, but I would have been better off never knowing how high quality the original ones were.

If you want to restore windows or remove trim with hardly any damage, either get this tool or get a shark tooth knife. This is THE trim remover tool when you need to keep the trim piece. Just remember to lever away from the wood, or place an item behind the blade when you pry in certain areas.This tool is legendary. I borrowed one to remove some trim one day, and for years after that I could never find the same bar in stores, it was always too thick, or had a nail pull slot, or was just different somehow and wasnt the same.Finally now I found this shark, the original tool I used! Perfect for staion-grade trim and wood.Yeah, you always need a good 14-inch or bigger cat's paw, but this is pefect for trim.

I have several other small pry bars, obtained in the search for the "one" that works. Well, I think that this Shark is the "one". I was involved in a small demolition project of some wooden privacy fence, when the box arrived, so the Shark didn't see any wasted time before I was knocking the paint off of the driver end. That wide, flat, sharp blade is just super for getting into the cracks and opening them up. I was trying to save some of the wooden slats and this bar was the best at doing that.The blade is sharp, about as sharp as many of the cheaper knives you'll find for sale, which is a great feature. You do have to be careful with it when using the other end, because it can cut you. I really like that the blade end doesn't have a large curve. The gentle curve lets you get down into the cracks to the nails, before it starts putting a lot of pressure on the wood. I have some photos showing the low profile of this blade compared to my other tools, that I'll put up later.My only complaint is that they don't make a longer version of this pry bar that I can buy. There were a few times when I needed more leverage than I could get with the 10 inch bar. I will probably order this pry bar, for the times I need more leverage, Estwing PB-18 18-Inch Pry Bar.. But, the Shark is certainly a keeper, moving to the head of the line of my prying tools.

I used it for taking off finish beading on a glass paneled wall mounted cupboard door, simply brilliant. And excellent value for the money.

this is the best pry bar available for removing finishings without damage etc. the fine steel edge gets you out of numerous situations on site.

Best tool in the box!

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So versatile