Woodturning Project Kit for Pepper Mill Shaft Mechanism

Just right!

This project turned out very well. The pepper mill kit is very easy to work with. The mill uses a ceramic grinder, durable plastic body and sturdy aluminum shaft. It looks like it should last a long time.I didn't purchase the special tool to seat the plastic inserts, so I used hot-melt glue to fasten the plastic into the mill body. It worked great!

No complaints, the project came out very good. Instructions and videos online are numerous. The wife loves it!

fine product careful pushing in worth nuyimg

These European made ceramic "Crush Grind" pepper (or salt) mills are excellent. I've built a few mills with them and like the way they work.They are sold by multiple vendors but are all the "Crush Grind" brand. I've had some minor "gotchas" while using these mechanisms.First, some of the vendors include instructions that recommend a using non-metric sizes of drills. Specifically for the plastic top that fit into the lid. Don't use their size. Measure the top and purchase a metric forstner bit that is the exact size. The entire top of the mechanism turns on that plastic part at the top. Using a non-metric bit will mean a loose and almost sloppy fit. Yes, it will work without the metric hole but it is much better if you drill the metric size.Secondly, you can adjust the size of the mill very simply. All you do is trim the pentagon shaft that runs through the mechanism. This is super easy and the only work was cutting the aluminum shaft with a hacksaw and then chamfering the top edge of the shaft so it would slide into the plastic cap described above. I once did make the mistake of not allowing enough of the metal shaft to stick up through the plastic. Don't do that or the top won't be secure enough in a heavier grinder. Plan your design to leave a generous amount of that pentagon shaft sticking up through the plastic cap. I've had a tab that holds the plastic cap to the pentagon shaft fail and break. I got in touch with the manufacturer of the mechanism and they replaced that part. Sent it all the way from Denmark or Sweden. No other failures of the mechanism and I'm not sure why that one broke.Another thing, you need to decide how you'll mount the grinder inside the mill you turn. There are at least two choices. The original design was based on using some very strong and rigid tabs to lock the mechanism in the mill. I haven't done that yet. It requires making or buying a special turning tool to cut an internal groove in the mill.The alternative is often suggested by vendors. Drill a hole in the mill body and epoxy the mechanism into the body. I've done that. I did have a problem one time with a mechanism coming loose. I'd used cheap Chinese epoxy (very dumb move) and that my have contributed to the failure. Bought some fresh U.S. made epoxy, cleaned out the cheap Chinese garbage (it was like glass in there) and tried it again. That was several years ago and there have been no further issues.Lastly, I carefully drew out the plan for how to drill the inside of the mill body including the exact length of the parts and components. Nothing complicated or too fancy, but I use very expensive materials and have a low tolerance for mistakes and failures. Drawing things out ahead of time is a sure fire way to increase your success with these mechanisms. I should mention that I carefully measured the various sizes of the body of the mechanism and included that in my drawing. Having the drawing handy while prepping the wood for turning made everything go very smoothly.These are really good mills and sure to impress anyone that ends up with one of your creations.