Vouke 3157 3057 3357 4157 Canbus Turn Signal White/Yellow Switchback LED Light Bulbs 22 SMD with Projector, for Standard Socket, Not CK- Pair of 2 with load resistors

Work as advertised, theyre bright and the resistors look decent. Install time took about 1 hour with soldered wires and proper wiring schematics (2012 Silverado). Make sure you mount the resistors on metal to dissipate heat and prevent melted wires. They have a slight delay when switching back to white after the turn signal has been switched off. This makes it look like an oem feature. Note: 07-13 Silverados require 2 sets of 2 pairs, 4 resistors or you will get a fast flash.

Update:It's 12-6-20, so 1.5 years later, and the turn signals are still working perfectly. So at this point I would highly recommend them to anyone looking for switchbacks.Original:I had already changed my low beams, fog lights and reverse lights to LEDs before taking this on... But all of those were plug and play so this one was definitely different. It ended up being really easy and you can see the huge difference it's made in my pictures and video. I ran the Gambit, trying to find out what I would need to install (non hyperblinking, fully functional) front LED turn signals on my 2010 Ford Edge. If you're like me, and got freaked out the moment you saw that resistors might need to be installed, don't worry. It was very simple. As long as you put the bulbs in they will at least work, so it's not like you'll be stranded without working turn signals. But they might be hyperblinking - they'll flash fast (as if you had a broken bulb). I'm saying this to let you know that you won't be screwed if you are say, in the process of putting them in and then something comes up. You can just take off and install the resistors later. From what I came to understand, as well, is that any car with this socket (3157/4157) just needs the Resistor connecting the two outside wires to one another (leaving the middle untouched). I heard this from a professional who was changing a rear turn signal on a different vehicle (it was another Ford). I'm not saying that is true all the time so take that as you will. But I am an engineer and it was enough for me to take a leap of faith and it worked fine. I did have my multimeter with me in case it didn't, so I could figure it out if it didn't work.. As I said, I have been changing all my lights over to LEDs and it's made a huge difference. So this was just the next step and I determined that I wanted switchbacks. I determined that my car would support them and went with them. You'll need clear covers or switchbacks are pointless.*If you want to check if your car will support them electronically, just do what I did and see if your oem bulbs (non led) have a dim mode (they'll barely look lit during the day) and then get brighter when signaling. With limited information out there, for installing these in exact car model and year -yes I know that Amazon (and the rest) will tell you that they fit your car, but that's just because they are the right socket.* What I'm talking about is the amount of resistors needed (if any), wiring diagrams and just wanting to feel comfortable knowing that if I cut into my car's wiring, I won't ruin it... In the end, I finally just decided to order these, figured I'd get them to my house, and determine what to do from there - if it looked too complicated send them back. But because they came with one resistor per side (2 total), with the 4 connectors as well (that don't require any actual cutting or soldering). I knew that I would at least get one side working if two were required and I'd just order more resistors on here (they're really cheap). The only thing to be careful when using the included connectors is that you have the wires in the correct slot and have the resistor wire pushed in far enough. Because they are pretty much a one time deal. You clamp them down tight and they cut and connect both wires together (so if the Resistor wire isn't in all the way you'll end up with it disconnected in your hand and no good way to connect it)I hope this helps. Please marked it helpful if it did. That way I know that doing these long reviews with pictures etc is worth it. Thanks

Bright! I uploaded some pictures and video so you can see how they look. I installed them on a 2011 Ford Ranger. They are bright white when not flashing. They instantly turn amber when used as a turn signal. I didn't use the included resistors since I replaced my Flasher Relay with an LED Flasher Relay. They Eliminate the need for load resistors and turn signals will flash at normal rate with or without LED bulbs. The one I used was called "EP27L LED Bulb Electronic Flasher 5 Pin Black Ford Flasher" from superbrightleds. You will have to research the correct flasher relay for your particular application if you want to avoid installing the load resistors (which can get very hot) to avoid the annoying "hyper flashing" symptoms when using the turn signals.

Installed on 2008 Ford Expedition EL in the front turn signal/running light bulb. I did need to use the resistors to stop the "hyper-flashing" I have read about. I almost didn't bother- the faster blinking really wasn't all that bad in my opinion. There were no instructions included- I had to YouTube how to install the resistors. Like other reviews have said, ditch the included blue connectors- I used them initially and then one didn't quite connect right and the light stopped working correct. Like other reviews have said, but some red ones- they are way better and right sized. One end of the resistor gets wired to your OEM harness on the ground wire of the bulb socket- in my case it was the dark wire looked almost black. The other end of the resistor gets wired to the "blinking power" wire, not the constant on one. In my case the middle wire was the constant on power for the running light, and the opposite to the ground outside wire was the blinking power. Used the included quick connectors to wire. Changing the bulbs was easy, plug and play. Make sure you mount the metal resistors to something metal like a frame rail. They get so hot you can't touch them. The good thing is they only heat up when the turn signal is actually blinking, not when they are running in running light mode. And honestly- how long do you run the turn signal for? 2 minutes... then it is off again. I zip tied them to a frame rail and let the blinker flash for 10 minutes straight to see if they would melt the plastic zip tie. Although they were really hot, they didn't melt anything, so I think I am safe with that. The real reason I went with these particular bulbs was 1. they included the resistors- didn't have to purchase them as an add on, but 2. these flash amber amber in turn signal mode, not amber white amber white- they go amber off amber off, and then after the turn signal complete after a slight pause, they go back to white running light, just they way I wanted them to work. From what I have read not all bulbs work like that. These bulbs are super bright when either on amber or white. Perfect match to the LED headlights and fog lights I already installed. Much brighter than the OEM bulbs. Would purchase again. Pictures show one side in amber blinking mode, and the other size in white running light mode.

Great brightness and value for the money. Love the projection lens on front/end of bulb. One detail to note(which doesn’t bother me at all) is..... when you have your park lights on and the bulb is white it will turn to orange as soon as you initiate the turn signal. But when your turn signal stops there is a 1 to 1.5 second delay for the light bulb to turn back on to white. Other then that great product and value for the money