ELEGOO Water Washable 3D Printer Resin, Rapid Resin 405nm LCD UV-Curing Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD 3D Printer Clear Blue 1000G

AnyCubic Photon. I have been using opaque resins up to this point. Before I started printing a friend would print things for me and he used this clear green resin. I wasn't sure what to think because they seemed to come out brittle. Thr opaque would as well, but it seemed sturdier, so fewer chips or breaks.I also wanted to try a water-wash up just for the ease of use and clean up. I was tired of the IPOH smell and handling.I read the reviews, they seemed relatively positive, so I figured I'd give it a shot.I'll go over everything, briefly.1st: Smell. It has the same smell as the IPOH clean up resin, however the smell isn't as strong. It's significantly less, but the smell is not gone. Make note of that. Don't expect no scent. Same, just weaker.2nd: Detail. Superb. It is capable of the same ultra fine detail the best resins are capable of. I am not disappointed in the slightest. I wasn't sure if the slight change in chemistry from the two different bases would make a difference. It did not. Very pleased with the detail.3rd: Strength/flexibility. Even after curing, this retains rigidity while still having just a little bit of play in it. It feels like it could withstand more of a drop than my previous resins. This makes me less nervous about printing minis that might get knocked off the gaming table. Don't get me wrong, I don't think it would survive a drop from 6ft, but I think it would fare better (less shatter) than other resins.4th: Reliability/print failures. OK, so this impressed me. I had a few plates that just refused to print on my previous resin. Something, somewhere would go wrong, if not be a complete failure. I know, sometimes it's luck of the draw. But I've printed between 5-10 plates on this already, and haven't had a single failure. All settings exactly the same as the opaque IPOH resin, didn't even adjust the FEP film tightness. Those 5-10 plates included several that had previously refused to print.5th: Print Clean up. I mean, you swish it in water like you used to do with IPOH. No vapors from your solution. And it cleans up perfectly fine. I thought maybe it wouldn't quite clean off everything without a harsher solvent. Nope. Perfect. Wipe down the plate or tray with a wet cloth. It actually leaves SIGNIFICANTLY less residue on the FEP. And by significantly less, I mean almost none. See my 6th point.6th: Salvaging resin. So, using the opaque resin, I would have to filter the remainder to get the artifacts or general nastiness out of the used resin in order to try and salvage some of it for future prints. It became milky and thick in some areas, and was just a pain to clean. The FEP would remain cloudy until I cleaned it one or two more times. Not with this. After my first plate, I pulled the vat out and was going to do my regular cleaning process. But I looked at it and saw no artifacts or blemishes in the liquid. I held it above my head and look at the light through it. Crystal clear. Nothing on the FEP, nothing floating, it looked perfect. "Hmm...why not?" I thought. I slid it back in, no cleaning at all, using exactly the same resin as the first print and ran another plate. Perfect print. I pulled it out and looked again. Clear. Let's do this. Perfect print. Checked again--clear. In fact, I haven't washed or replaced the resin at all in those 5-10 prints, and they're still coming out perfectly. I figure I'll keep going until I notice something.7th: Paintability. Once cleaned and cured, it takes (acrylic) paint with no priming. I put on a base coat of paint in whatever color I choose, but I don't use a primer per say. The paint stays on solidly and doesn't chip or wipe away like some other materials without primer, even after use. I know this won't matter to some people, but to my tablet top gamers out there that like to print their own minis--that's just one more thing you don't have to worry about. This surprised me. No idea if it works with non-acrylic options like oil based.I'm sticking with this product.

Selected this bottle for three color presented in the picture (lighter green shade and not an evergreen like most translucent greens I've used have ended up being). Resin is closer to an ever green in color, cures darker than the picture leads on. Otherwise, easy to clean and cure.

I have printed 1000s of minatures using this and won't use anything else. 100% happy with it.

Works great and is easy to cleanup using water.

Was using inland products mostly without issue but had trouble finding a variety of colors. So I thought to try elegoo. Elegoo is about 10$ cheaper for 1000g. Tried elegoo and the exact same prints fail about 25% to 50% of the time. Then i try again and print with inland and almost never get a bad print. Going back to inand I guess once I use up this resin. Not worth the wasted time.

The media could not be loaded.  I personally am not not a fan of the resin. I went through 1.5 bottles of this with a lot of failed prints because the resin is extreemly brittle and i am printing large robotic parts, you cannot print anything directly on the bed, as anything on the bed with shatter when removed. Warping on my smaller flat parts was a problem as well. the non quick cure stuff works better for my application as its more flexable, this fast curing resin is not great for alot of my applications.EDIT: customer support got back to me after a week and replaced the resin. They seem to want to help despite the long response time. Gave an extra star for the support received.If you are printing parts that don't need flexibility then this resin might work fine for you.

a lot of cool applications can be done with this, just gotta get your settings Dialed in , but with this resin its pretty easy, . I will def be getting more

I am super stoked about getting a 3d resin printer to practice painting miniatures. This resin printed great in an Elegoo Mars Pro 2. The printed models had a LOT of detail that is just astounding when coming from an FDM 3D printer like an Ender 3/5.Cleanup is super easy with just some water and a soft-bristle toothbrush. UV treating was a breeze. Then one of my boys happened and those nice appendages and attached swords, shields, guns and etc. just snapped off.I'm not mad at them. I dropped a model off my workbench and and it landed just right and the sword just broke off. There is no flex to absorb almost any kind of accidental impact.I'll probably continue to use this resin as to make parts like buttons and solid shapes without much detail just because of how brittle it is. I don't think any of these would survive a trip without some very particular packing much less any kind of fun play.I've read that the plant-based resin is much more flexible/durable but requires cleaning with isopropyl alcohol.