BOJACK 2 Poles FLA 40 Amp Coil 24 VAC Air Conditioner Condenser Compressor Contactor AC Definite Purpose Contactor

I was getting an E183, over current message, on my Nest Home Thermostat, whenever I tried to put the AC on. Heating worked fine. At first I thought I needed a new Thermostat, but that didn't fix it. After some more investigation, I saw where it might be the Contactor or Capacitor. I replaced both. My existing Contactor was a DP23024F by IRP. Very old. I got the BOJACK with the same specs. My old Contactor had the contacts labeled L1/L2 and T1/T2. The BOJACK had no such marking. I didn't want to connect it up incorrectly. Anyway, after a some intensive searching and watching YouTube videos, one guy said that if there are no L1/L2 or T1/T2, that meant you could wire it up on either end, and it made not difference. I wired it up, replace the existing Turbo 200 capacitor, and it worked great. AC working fine with no issues for the past few days. Once final comment. I was getting a buzzing sound from the circuit panel. I determined that the outside pullout / cutoff was not in solidly. After adjusting the outside pullout, no more buzzing in the circuit panel. Great product. well built. works great.

Perfect replacement - got my AC back and running quickly. Was easy to replace and fit the old part perfectly.

Installed this one year ago, and is still working. No issues.

Perfect for my use

Works like a dream. Way cheaper than an intermatic timer and more features as I have wifi with the kasa switch so can do everything remotely as well as locally. I can turn OFF my smart hot water heater instead of it running at 110. I turn OFF and thus RESET my hottub schedule instead of it being messed up by an grid outage and then running during high-cost time-of-use time.This contactor has two ways to connect the 240v lines: bare wire then screw the barrel to or the standard push connector. My hot water and hottub both draw 25 amps continuous and not a surge like a compressor. They have been going for a couple months.I'm not a relay/contactor expert but based on the lack of documentation or diagram, it doesn't seem to matter which way you put the 120v (coil in my case) or which way you put the line and load on the 240v side. Generally accepted practices is to put the line side (source) up and the load side (the device you are controlling) on the bottom.

Emits an electrical hums. One by itself isn’t an issue but, three or four working together might prompt the purchase of name brand switches. Otherwise, it works very well.

Installed 1 week ago and working as designed

Still works excellent