3g Rare Blue and White Point Dahlia Seeds Beautiful Perennial Flowers Plants Dahlia for DIY Home Garden Bonsai Seeds

These never grew. Very disappointed.

By the time these seeds don’t grow it is too late to return. So it’s just like throwing your money away. Never again. Lesson learned. Buyers beware

I have planted every single seed in individual cells and I can honestly say it was a waste of dirt. I have gotten maybe ten of them to grow to this size then they die. I have been gardening for over 40yrs now and growing dahlia from seed for 20 of those years. I knew something was wrong with the seeds and believe much of it was just plant debris. The ones that actually are seed seem to be deformed and old.Do better

Couldn’t grown

Easy to grow but not the flowers shown in the photos.

I bought these they looked so cool, however they never stared to grow. I called to see what there warranty would cover, no luck there they told me I was out of my 30 day window so no help. I'm thinking had I called with in that 1st 30 days they would have told me to give it some time for them to grow. So either way buyer be aware

Took awhile, a few came up but died.

Absolutely no dahlia will survive subzero temps. Either it isn't a true dahlia species or it's an outright lie. The hardiest known dahlias might survive a light freeze if they are an established tuber but they are perennial at best in USDA zone 6 or warmer. Freezing winters means dahlias will only be annuals and never come back the next year. Usually it is not recommended to plant them outside until the soil is at least 60F and to germinate seeds at 65-70F. If you want them alive next year you should dig them up when the weather starts to cool in fall unless you heavily winterize them with insulation or preferably cold frames in zone 6 or live in a warmer climate.Dahlia seeds are hard to germinate. They need light, warmth, and moisture. That means they dry out fast on top of fast draining seed starter, don't get enough light if covered, or aren't warm enough at the top of deeper pots unless the room is kept warm. Starting them on damp paper towels in plastic bags with plenty of light and warmth is one of the simplest methods.Otherwise what has worked best for me with most seeds that have such requirements is to use pots that wick some moisture like terra cotta or a wicking string placed down the center of a pot out the hole in the bottom so you can get water consistently to the top by keeping a tray underneath filled with a little water most of the time. Use tall enough pots that they have ~2" growing space from fill level to the rim while still having enough space for the plant to start rooting. After fully moistening the seed starter place the seed fully on top of the growing media with at most pressing it down in some but do not cover even lightly. Stretch completely clear plastic tightly over the pot and provide lots of light, preferably actual sunlight, and keep warm. If the top looks excessively moist or your starting media is not high enough quality and begins to mold then you can make it a little drier by letting the bottom tray dry out for awhile before adding more moisture or if necessary create a few holes or a gap on the edge of the plastic over the top. Remove plastic when seedlings have rooted and begun to grow true leaves.Individual domed peat pots may be a suitable alternative but the amount of extra air space may still result in too dry of soil surface depending on local conditions and peat pots may increase the odds of mold when kept constantly damp. The entire pot may also remain excessively damp or excessively dry from higher levels of moisture loss and absorption than unsealed clay. The complete lack of moisture and air exchange with plastic pots nearly always results in less root mass when I go to plant those seedlings than plants from the same packet of seeds placed in unsealed clay pots or peat pots. It can be harder to get consistent moisture levels throughout the pot with plastic and keeping the top moist has a higher risk of being wet enough below the surface that it rots the roots.Dahlias are one of the least consistent producers of a specific flower type from seed. A tuber will make an identical plant to the original but like most other living things the seeds are a mix of the genetics the parent plants have. Even if you only have the same variety of plant in a solid greenhouse or room the plant can carry genes for other colors, flower sizes/shapes, leaf details, and plant size that aren't visible in the original. When plants cross you still don't always get an identical plant even if the seeds come from plants divided off the same tuber. Dahlias are particularly unpredictable with many different variations that are generally propagated from tubers rather than attempts to produce a consistent result from seed. When growing dahlia form seed you will get some of the desired characteristics and some randomness nearly every time. Only divided tubers will guarantee you get the same look as the original plant.