Superior Tool 05255 1.5" Tub Drain Extractor-Removes One and a Half Inch Old or Stubborn Tub Drains

todo bien, gracias

Summary: The tool worked great as there were only two other options, spend several hours trying to cut it out or try another internal wrench at 4x the price (which had marginal reviews). If you don't get around to replacing these tub drains every few years (depending upon your water condition) before the center cross is gone, it's not a matter of 'if' but when you will need one of these tools to get the drain out.First a couple of comments about the tool itself:The one I received was "MADE IN USA". It also was stamped with "HUSKY" and is the same one I saw at HD but this was $5 less. The photo shows, it came packed in a 'Superior Tool' blister pack.There were some questions about the sizing of drains that this tool will fit. I took actual measurements at the largest and smallest diameter of the tool I received as shown in the photos. The tool will fit in a hole diameter of 1.5" to 1.75" and get a bite. If the hole diameter of the particular drain is outside of these limits, it will not work. Make sure when measuring the diameter of the drain to measure deep enough in the hole using a caliper, not just the top radius.As other positive reviews have posted, there is some technique that I will sum up here. I also suggest watching a few of the videos.1) I didn't heat the drain prior to removing. I don't know if that would help or not. The drain was installed with a lot of plumbers putty coating the threads and flange. (see photo) It's been in for 15 years and pretty dried out. I should have replaced the drain a long time ago but I wasn't sure of what I was getting into. Rest assured, it is not too complicated. However, if you do not know what the drain pipe connectors below the tub are made out of, assume it is ABS plastic. Hence, watch out if you use a heat gun as you could melt the pipe that the drain is screwed into and you won't be able to get a new drain installed! Also, my tub is fiberglass and could be damaged by too much heat.2) I used a file to clean up some of the loose corrosion so the tool would get a good bite on the drain.3) "tap" means hit it pretty good (as if you were center punching steel but not driving nails) several (8-10) times until the tool is seated firmly and squarely the in the hole. You should be able to feel when the tool is seated firmly as the hammer will bounce differently when it is seated. If it pops out when turning to extract, just repeat tapping it in. I had to do this a couple of times until I seated it in firmly enough because I was a bit timid in the tapping. Just keep tapping until the hammer bounce is firm is the best way to describe this. When re-seating, twist until you feel it get into the grooves already started.4) I used a 16" breaker bar to get the drain loosened a quarter turn, then switched to a standard ratchet handle. It took some effort to break it loose even with the breaker bar.5) To remove the drain from the tool, I just held the drain with a big channel lock and reversed the ratchet. Didn't take much effort at all and it popped right off.Total time in the tub: about 5 minutes. If your drain is too far gone, this tool might not work and you might have to go an alternate method. But if there is still some metal left, it's probably worth it to try this first for $15. Watch the return policy because the seller might not take it back if the pack has been opened.

This tool is brilliant and removes wastes that do not have a crossmember inside. Many of the newer bath wastes in particular, some of the click clack type, do not have enough of a ridge inside to turn them out with mole grips, long nose pliers or other tools.You tap the tool into the waste lightly with a hammer and insert a 1/2inch ratchet into the slot at the top of the tool and turn anti-clockwise and it unscrews the waste with ease. The tool is not available in the UK but it's worth waiting for from America. Highly recommended.

Looks like a lot of people have had success with this well made tool. There maybe a small percentage of old drains that the tool just slips and wont bite. Unfortunately mine is a very old drain and the tool won't grab where as the knurled bite of other removal tools like the rigid tool may have been a better choice for my drain but there is no way to tell in advance of buying one and trying it. As a last resort tactic I have been advised to use a Dremel tool to carefully cut a slot down the side my old tub drain. I still rate it a three since I am sure it will work well on the next drain.UPDATE UPDATE. My tub drain was probably the worst situation you could encounter. It was very old very corroded, the cross bars were completely gone and it turns out the original installer had used a sealant compound not conventional to plumbing and thus the threads were literally glued. I tried all the suggestions listed but the tool just spun in the drain and would not retain it's bite. A 20 inch flex bar in the hands of a gorilla would cause any tool to slip. Finally I used a heat gun followed by a cordless impact driver and finally a long flex bar with my wife standing atop it in the drain on an 8x8 scrap of 3/4 plywood and it finally gripped but remained a fight to the last thread. I doubt any other tool would have been useful in my case. This tool allows you to hammer it as much as you like then and utilize the flex bar for additional leverage, and you can use the impact driver with it and stand on it as well and after all that the tool still looks like new. I have upgraded my review of it to a 5 star. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

Had an old corroded drain. Needed this tool to get it out. It takes a little more than light taps to seat it in the drain so that it won’t slip out. This along with a breaker bar to loosen it, then ratchet it out.