LoctiteNaval Jelly Rust Dissolver, 16 fl oz

Leaves a preventive black oxide coating behind that can be left or removed as desired. I use it to restore heavily rusted saw blades, chisels, table surfaces, and other tools with heavily pitted surfaces. The gel gets under the oxidation right to the steel/iron to lift away the oxidation and protect the base metal. Fast and efficient, rarely need to use a second application. Great stuff!

Great for little rust spots, I would still thoroughly wire brush the rust before hand. Don't be stupid like me and accidently get it in your mouth working under your car. Tastes very sweet and sour, very toxic though. If you accidently get it in your mouth call 911.

This worked well, as I remembered it would. I've used this "stuff" off and on across years of projects. It's also a component in the old "rust converter" products - the smell is an indicator.Anyway - if stick to the directions and don't apply to thin (thin will dry within 10mins pending your environment, low humidity, etc.) you'd need to apply more to then remove it. One would not want to allow it to "harden" - just making work for yourself there.So, I choose this for a more "delicate" project to remove, medium-light, medium, to speckeled rust on some old Blades. There could be a small, e.g., 1/4 to 1/2 " spot, but not like a dug in and to flake off layer - it would leave a darker spot, but still mostly a cosmetic (to me, imo) result.Again, it worked as expected; however, again, if do a second application, just stay with it since would not be really "bare" (no oil etc. at all) metal. I'm not saying you'd "etch" it, but if had otherwise "brite" metal where not "rusted", some of the brite-ness, so to speak could be diminished. Why would that matter? Well, I'm not seeking to thing to have to hand polish it to bring that back and would/could look "odd", especially on an old blade seeking to preserve - not "restore". Again, that's a cosmetic thing, but for some - these "hints" may be a good reminder. I see allot of metal that someone tried to "clean up" and ruined the cosmetic value of the blade - functionally, a blade is a blade otherwise. If seeking to "preserve" old metal that was likely cared for the past 150 years or so, I'd say, one application up to 10 min then stop - using a green scotch pad (wear gloves, well vented room). Then no more than (for me) a 3 min, generous coating to keep from drying at all, using a green scotch pad (no metal or abrasives) - should do it and the item look cared for not "cleaned up".Otherwise, e.g., ask a conservatory, or "museum" staff in a public agency or look farther into it.From what I've experienced is, if left on, to dry, would remove the "brite" aspect. Some may be okay with that. I would immediately oil, or silicone lube spray allowed to dry or as you like. Since you are with water rinsing it, deactivating it (unless want to do more) just make sure it's actually dry and or WD40 displace any dampness.I hope that helps. (If you work in a shipyard with 5 gal buckets, your on your own :) )

So far on my drive way I have tryed CLR, Liquid Plumber (generic), beach, scrubbing bubbles and a pressure washer. The CLR barely lightened it up BUT it did help a little. The liquid plumber was about the same as the CLR but seemed to etch or calcify the concrete its self... still not enough. Bleach was useless and so was scrubbing bubbles. So, I did a test spot of this product, right in the worse of it. WOW. It seemed to get about 85-90% of the rust color out. Concrete was dry, brushed on a decent but not too thick layer and let it work for about half an hour or more. I hope the rest of the rust stain/sheen can look the same. A car battery overheated/exploded and as a result, the dripping volatile and caustic chemicals got on the driveway and washed down the driveway. It looks like rusty melted icecream all the way down (about 20 feet). Im confident that this product is the best one ive tryed so far. Not even close. I may need a 2nd bottle to get every last part off.

My wife and I searched the 'net for assorted products with which to clean the rusty-crustier parts of our 1987 Yamaha Moto4, and found Loctite Naval Jelly worth a try. I can give this product two very enthusiastic, nitrile-gloved THUMBS-UP! The jelly removed all of the rust, as well as some caked-on, baked-on brake material from the back brake disk.My particular method was to follow the instructions as printed on the bottle for the first go-round; this removed significant rust and corrosion from the parts, and quickly enough to warrant my wanting to try letting the jelly sit a bit longer- I gave the second application twenty minutes, and scrubbed away even more gunk- and became obsessive-compulsive about removing ALL of the crusty-rusty...Forty minutes into the third application, I scrubbed it clean with a small wire brush and copious amounts of water, and behold, before me was a near-new brake disk. Folks, the jelly works just fine with the ten-minute application; I was being over-zealous with my second and third uses- be your own judge and decide how clean you want your parts. Letting the jelly sit longer on the part does help to remove more rust; I'm not certain where the point of diminishing returns lay with this stuff. It's inexpensive enough for me to goop it on thick, over and over, and delight in the results.Speaking of goop- the jelly is just that- a jelly-like liquid, rather thick, and can be applied with a brush, as instructed- it likes vertical surfaces just fine. The pink color went well with my daughters and spouse too ;-).