TOM Par LED stage light, 40W RGBW COB par can wash lights with polished aluminum reflector plus small dome len and 7 DMX512 channel stage lighting for wedding/party/theater

This fixture comes packaged in a tidy little plain box with a plastic bracket, the hardware necessary to affix said bracket, and slip of paper than constitutes a manual. Another review mentioned receiving a small DMX cable but this was not the case in my purchase -- nothing to be sad about given that it is not part of the listing in the first place.As for the light's output it of course has its four colours, with each channel of RGB drawing around 3.5-4W apiece, with the white LED capable of pushing to 5W on its own. As such, when all lights are set to their maximum intensity it draws ~18W from the wall. On standby with all lights off but the unit still powered on, it uses a hair over 1 watt for the internal circuitry and rear 7-segment display.Colour mixing isn't particularly great at lower levels, so if you try and dim a mixed tone it will change hue, sometimes not at all subtly. What makes this very evident is if you try and combine all three channels to produce white: at lower intensity it will look rather green-blue (and in sort of a gradient due to the offset of each chip under the diffusor) and when fading it up this morphs into a pale magenta. Thankfully, there is the separate White channel to give a nice solid cold white.It outputs as a fairly homogenous splash with around a 135 degree cone, more intense centrally but not nearly enough to ever consider it a particularly directional light. Carefully removing the central diffusor doesn't help in any way, and just creates hard shadows with colour fringing instead.Checking the inside, there is a 40mm fan which I was surprised to see, as the loudest thing to my ear was a high pitched whine whenever the LEDs are being driven, proportional to the power draw, at 11.7kHz. As it turns out, the way the wires were jammed inside on both of my units, they prevent the fan from spinning at all. Silent yes, but no airflow whatsoever.In addition to the small fan, there is a rather substantial heatsink (80g), which combined with the metal reflector managed to keep it from burning itself out in my tests so far. Now that I've jimmied the internal wires such that none are blocking the fan I feel more confident to use it at higher brightness for sustained output. The unit's metal reflector did get warm to the touch but it did not struggle during my initial testing. With the fan now running, it's definitely noisier but unlikely to cause any disturbances more than 3m/10ft away. Despite the fan, the reflector still reaches 50°C (120°F) within half an hour of full 18W output, dropping to around 40°C at 10W.Finally, there is a 3-pin header on the control board labeled 'remote' but I don't have the means to test this by plugging in an IR receiver. At any rate, I can now close this thing up, which is rather difficult due to the cheap construction. It doesn't seem to want to align properly to close, but forcing the screws into their holes keeps it shut well enough.Regarding operation, an annoyance of mine is that when hooked up to a controller in DMX mode, the rear display constantly flashes. When the controller is disconnected it stops flashing but also blacks out the lights, so you can't even set it how you'd like and then cut signal to save yourself a headache. If these were the sort of units to be mounted high up and actually put out a serious amount of light, this would be a non-issue, but given that at lower intensities this flashing actually becomes quite noticeable in comparison with the (front) output of the unit, it's rather undesirable. I'll try to find some tinted acrylic to cover them, perhaps.Overall, if you are in need of a low-power RGBW splash light for cheap, it's hard to beat. Probably perfect for setting some vibrant mood lighting in a dark room, or to add a dash of colour to a small studio setup. The fan not working properly on arrival is worrying, and will likely cause many units to prematurely fail as the chips cook themselves to death with prolonged use. But for a low cost entry to the DMX space, it's a nice little unit to have regardless.

I figured out that, to work this by hand (as opposed to DMX), you press the menu until you find ther000 for red,g000 for green,b000 for blue,u000 for (white? purple? not sure)However, those abbreviations do not match up with the color that comes out of it. I would have to do it again to tell you all of the details, but, for example, it seems that when I worked through the range of g000 through g255, I got red on one of those numbers instead of green.

Bueno

Typical of these chinese low-cost lights, they exaggerate the wattage. One of the two I ordered was starting to come apart. Must mostly, they are17 watt, not 40 watt. On the plus side, they included a short DMX cable.