1600 Watts MonoBlock Amplifier, Class A/B, Remote Subwoofer Control, Mosfet Power Supply, Subwoofer Amplifiers for Car Audio Speakers

I have it turned half way down because it’ll blow my 8” Skar SDR. It’s definitely 1-ohm stable. Doesn’t get hot at all. In the pic- you’ll see I had some cooling fans hooked up, because the old amp would heat up. After replacing with LEIGESAUDIO, This thing runs cool, and I’ve been on some long road trips and it does very well. I don’t need the fans anymore, but I do need to upgrade my sub, because this amp is too powerful for it. Great for a little budget starter. ThiS was my first build. I recommend 100%.

Actually puts out rated power

I got it powering a 6.5” scar evil subwoofer, in a small box with a 6.5” passive radiator. It replaced an older JVC class AB amp that outputs approximately the same amount power at 4 ohms. But, as others have noted, it hits harder than the JVC and, as expected, runs cooler. I guess you could say this is exactly what you would expect from a class the amp when comparing it to a class AB.Long story short, it’s a very inexpensive amp for what you get. I really like the fact that it came with a remote bass control. iMO, probably the only other comparable deal out there, watt for watt, is the latest Jensen class D amp. I own that amp too, and I could tell you that the Jensen is noisier.If you’re just looking to add some extra bass to your car, this is a great choice. Let’s hope it lasts.

I purchased this item with low expectations it would perform as advertised. For the price of 60 bucks, this amp promises a lot of value. You can see the specs page for all of the inputs/outputs, I prefer to talk about output power here. I use an SMD Amp Dyno AD-1 to verify power output. The Leiges TG-500.1D is rated to deliver:350x1 at 4 ohms600x1 at 2 ohms900x1 at 1 ohmall RMS specs at 14.4VDC according to the manualOdd in that the amp clearly has the model number 500.1 and even says "500 watts" on the heatsink.You can see the attached image for all of the Amp Dyno tests, but clearly you can see this is a 500W amp, not 900W. That said, at the current price, this is one of the best values of wattage per dollar I've seen. This amp won't require upgraded electrical (use 8ga OFC power/ground), so the overall cost with this amp, a sub and a wiring kit won't break the bank.Other than the made up RMS and MAX ratings, this amp for the money seems to be a very good deal. Maybe buy 2 in case one goes bad? In any case you'll have just over a hundo and an extra amp. I tried this amp with the KICKER L7R Quad Box wired at 1 ohm and it sounded fantastic. No issues whatsoever with the sound quality. Amazing!

Actually makes the power it advertised on amp dyno, awesome amp bumping a Skar 10" daily

I have been continuing to try and get this amplifier to work for my fiancé for 9 months. It will power up and make a subwoofer move but the problem is it won’t turn off. No matter what I do to try and correct the problem it persists. If left alone the car battery will drain to 0. I have done a dozen car audio installations for friends and family I know what I’m doing. I have tried changing where it’s grounded where its power cord is connected I’ve tried many different places for the remote wire. I have crossed off every possible issue and have narrowed it down to a problem with the amplifier itself.

I bought 2 and there working great pushing 2 ct 15 inch subwoofers each subwoofer has its own amp

I bought this amp for the best budget system i could make. I got this amp and 2 hifonics 12s in a box I made. It hits pretty good for as budget as it get system. Not going to win any rewards, but good for my kids first car. She is stoked about it. I've even smelled the subs sometimes. Lol for the money you can't hardly bet it.