Siweex 10pcs T5 Red Lights Neo Wedge LED 3-SMD 3528 Car Instrument Cluster Panel Dashboard Lamps Gauge Bulbs DC 12V

I purchased these Siweex 10pc T5 LED lights for use in my '06 Honda CR-V. We have a '16 Honda Odyssey that uses bright white LEDs on all its internal controls and panels. I loved the look and wanted it in my CR-V. I originally bought single-diode, forward-firing LED lights, these  Partsam 10x White PC74 Twist Socket T5 Wedge 37 70 1-SMD 5050 LED Dashboard Instrument Cluster Light . Unfortunately, they didn't provide the lighting surface I wanted on the gauges. So, I decided upon the Siweexes, as they had three diodes and should provide roughly 300 or so degrees of lighting, vs. the Partsam's which only threw about 120 degrees of lighting. FWIW, the Partsam's, while not offering as much lighting surface as the Siweexes, didn't cause near the issues the Siweex lights ultimately caused me. While there are Pros to these lights, they caused me a very, very significant Con. In the interest of a fair review, I'll present both pros and cons.Pros:*The Siweex LEDs are a direct fit for the T5 Toshiba V2 sockets '02-'07 Honda CR-Vs use, contrary to what other reviewers have said. I have Toshiba V2 sockets in my '06 CR-V. If you bend the contacts inside the sockets in, somewhat, the Siweex wedges fit well enough to light and stay put.*When they worked, the Siweex LEDs provided a much broader lighting surface, compared to the Partsam's I had installed previously. I liked the light thrown by the Siweex bulbs -- a nice, bright white light that gave the vehicle a modern, clean look. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a picture of the look, as the lighting was short-lived (please see Cons).Cons:*Pointed out by other reviewers, the contacts are slimmer than typical wedge lights. So, you have to bend the prongs of the Toshiba V2 sockets inward to a) make contact with the circuits on the Siweexes and b) ensure the Siweex lights don't fall out over time, as the vehicle vibrates, shimmies, etc. This was no big deal, as once I bent the prongs in, the LEDs stayed in place and lit.*BY FAR, THE BIGGEST CON: These bulbs fried the circuits on my instrument cluster panel. I have pictures calling out where the damage occurred. I'll cover this Con in General Comments below.General Comments: Please understand, the issue I faced is is not an issue with polarity and areas not lighting up. I'm familiar with polarity issues to which LEDs are prone. I have not modified my CR-V's electrical circuits in any manner. It's all stock. I'm also certain there was no prior damage to any of the sockets or the circuitry on the instrument cluster before installing the Siweexes. Everything (all sockets and cluster circuitry) was in great shape when the OEM bulbs were in. Things were also in great shape when the Partsam's were in. FWIW, I was truly worried the Siweexes wouldn't light, due to the much lower total draw of the Siweexes compared to the OEM bulbs. But, I figured the Partsam's worked... so, why not the Siweex bulbs. Be that as it may, I know these bulbs fried my cluster. After installing the Siweex bulbs, and plugging in the panel, I turned on my lights to test the lights and see which bulbs would need rotated (as there's almost always one that needs rotated to get it to light), or contacts that need bent in more to give power to the bulbs, etc. Trust me, installing LEDs isn't always as simple as plug and play. If you try it, do not re-seat anything permanently without first testing whether things light correctly. The majority of the panel lit (I think only three bulbs needed rotated) and I was pleased with the effect -- again, brighter white than before, with more gauge-surface area lit than before. FWIW, one of the bulbs that lit originally was one that also fried my panel. I removed the panel and re-seated the three bulbs that didn't light (I was pretty much a pro at detecting which lights didn't light by this point). After installing the Siweex bulbs, plugging in my panel, and turning on my lights, I immediately heard a quick sizzle and soon smelled burnt plastic emanating from my CR-V's dash. I turned off my lights, fast. My heart sank as I prayed for the best-case scenario -- a burned LED. I pulled the panel again. I could see on the back of the panel which socket had fried, as it was brown. Smelling it confirmed it. I still hoped for the best. I removed all the Siweex bulbs and put the Partsam's back in, still praying, as none of the Siweex bulbs appeared burned... not even the one in the burned socket. I had a replacement socket on-hand from the Partsam's, which I know worked. After inserting the Partsam's, turning on lights, guessing at what didn't work and why, removing bulbs, reinserting them, and doing this again and again many times, (I even tried the OEM bulbs), I confirmed the worst -- 99% of the cluster's lighting, along with my HVAC lights and other button lights, were dead. I was fit to be tied. I was lucky that the light behind my speedometer worked so I could see it at night, as I tried to figure out a resolution. In the daytime, with the lights off, my odometer/thermometer light worked. However, when I turned on my lights, the odometer/thermometer light no longer worked. So, "Wait," you're likely saying, "this is just an electrical problem with the car and not a fault of the bulb." At least that's what I thought at that point. Well, I later discovered the cluster circuits tie into more than just the panel. The circuits also tie into the: HVAC control panel lights, passenger airbag light, window control lights, moon roof light, and VSA light. How do I know this? Please read on. Because of the fried panel, I checked into purchasing a new instrument cluster from Honda. At $400 each (just for the part) no thank you. I ended up buying a used cluster panel from a junk yard for an '06 CR-V (which I found out doesn't have a thermometer on it, despite it being the part match for my VIN) for $150. I also knew going into it that the "new" panel had an odometer reading lower than my original panel. I figured I'd just have it reprogrammed. So, I got it. I needed to do something. After I got the new cluster, I plugged it in. Viola, upon turning on my lights, all lights worked -- the: cluster instrument panel, HVAC control lights, passenger airbag light, window control lights, moon roof light, and VSA button light. And, yes, the odometer reading was indeed 4500 miles under my reading (while not generally a problem, it might prove more an issue for a resell situation or registration renewal). I called Honda to see how much it would be to reprogram the odometer -- $250. Dang. Moreover, it would have to be shipped to California to be reprogrammed. Double-dang... and, again, no thank you. I now have a sticker under the odometer so I can report the actual miles on the engine. I won't be installing LEDs in the cluster again -- and will definitely avoid these Siweex bulbs. My wife would be livid.Recommended Purchase?: Ummm... I'd have to lean toward a "No," on this one. Siweex, this is the lowest rating I've given a product. A $9 order ended up costing me $150 and a major inconvenience. FWIW, it's wonderful that other reviewers seemed not to have run into the same issues as I did. Had it not happened to me, I wouldn't have believed it could happen. But, it did. I have pictures below to prove it. I'd recommend staying away from these bulbs (at least for an '06 Honda CR-V), just in case.

Much brighter than the original bulbs. I first tried the white bulbs to replace the A/C control lights in my 2000 Toyota Tacoma. They did work, but the placement of the bulbs created a slight "yellowing" effect in certain places on the control panel. Fortunately, I also ordered a pack of the green colored bulbs (which are a closer factory match anyway) and those worked perfectly.I was hoping to use the white bulbs for a brighter and more "custom" look. I may still use them in different locations on the vehicle. The are not "bi-directional" so if they don't light up at first, just turn them around.They came on a single printed circuit board where you can snap them off as you need them. I was a little nervous about this, so I used some heavy scissors to separate them. And finally, the little zip-lock bag they come in is a total pain to open up. I actually cut down one side in order to make it easier to open.

These LED bulbs are much brighter than the stock bulbs. However, when the LEDs came, they were loose fitting in the socket BUT don't worry! All you have to do is bend the copper contact areas of the socket so that they come in contact with the LED. Also, these bulbs are polarized meaning if you install them and some don't light up, just take the sockets with the LED out and turn them around then twist them back in place. A great thing about these LEDs are that they don't create much hotspots around the instrument cluster and are really bright.Just to mention, the 95 Lexus ES300 Instrument cluster does use a T5 socket, just need to bend the connection to make it work. UPDATE: In the daytime, there are visible hotspots around the cluster which can be a bit annoying but at night, they are hardly visible.

These lights were a perfect match for the bulbs in the front visors and the rear lower footwells of my 2013 BMW 335i convertible. The bulbs were slightly too long to fit in the housing for the lower rear footwell bulbs so I trimmed the end opposite to the LEDs slightly using a pair of scissors and that did the trick. The LEDs did not require trimming to replace the bulbs in the front visors. To save some time during install, I would recommend testing the bulbs before you re-install the housing because mine required a bit of wiggling around before they would come on. Also, if you cannot get them to come on, try flipping the bulb over because some LED lights like this can be pole specific. I'm very happy with the way they look, thank you!

To note that the base is a PCB board and needs some trimming although it does plug into a T5 receptacle. I had to insert a sharpened matchstick to ensure constant contact however. If the type of mounting is important, it may be better to get a model that has a plastic / original type base.

these little blubs worked great they fit the sockets real tight didnt have to squeeze the connector to make them snug ... and there really bright, I've had other riders tell me how bright they look from behind ... would I buy them again.... you betcha

Picture doesn't really do justice. These bulbs were put in for the 3 climate control knobs. At night they look great, in the day they are kind of spotted due to the sunlight and all so are not the best looking in the day. But who need lights on in the day? Great fit.

Works great in my 2003 Grand Cherokee dash cluster - original bulbs being PC74 and #103. Takes a little patience to get the old bulbs out of the twist sockets / locks. Also had to use a tiny flat head to bend the metal twist socket connections to create a tighter fit on the LED's. No biggy if you know what you're doing. If not, buy a set of LED's that come with the twist sockets. Remember, LED's are polarized- if a bulb doesn't work, just take it out and reverse it.