62734 Silver 3-Way Portable Gas Refrigerator - 51 Quart

I bought this cooler in July 2013 and I was impressed with the quality of this product. It works great in 120 volt mode, it went down to 35 F in 12 hours with the otside temp @ 80 F, thermostat works great. I went camping at our property which is at 6000 feet, with outside temp at about 90 F the temp inside the cooler was about 56 F. I called their tech. support and recieved excellent service ( which is in Canada) and asked if they had a high altitude kit. I was pleasantly surprised when he said yes. We went through some troubleshooting to determine if the cooler was working ok. After this he checked with the factory to see what would be best, to change the orifice or adjust the gas regulator. They recommeneded to adjust the regulator that way if I wanted to use the cooler at a lower altitude I would not have to change the orifice so he sent me a adjusted regulator. I went camping at 6000 feet and the cooler cooled down to 41 F with the outside temp at 88 F. At night it went as low as 25 F. I have not tried it in DC mode yet. What I like about this cooler is that it runs in 120 volts/DC/propane. In propane mode the temp can be adjusted but has no thermostat. I was impressed with the quality. The cooler can be used anywhere due to it's 3 modes of operations. It comes with all cables/hoses/gas regulator complete ready to start. The owners manual is well written, does a good job on explaning how to do the maintenance that is required as well as troubleshooting. The tech. support is great and the price good. I would recommened this prouduct.

Bought this product to use off the grid on propane. However, it only works on 12VDC and 120VAC. Contacted the manufacturer and they told me to clean the orifice through which the gas expels from. Did that and it still doesnt work on propane. tried to reach them again and they did not respond after many many emails. I asked if I could return and have them fix it or just refund my money, but they stopped responding. It works well on 120VAC, but primitive camping in the rough does not allow us to use it this way. If I had electric to use I would use a regular mini-fridge.Big waste of time and money.

I bought this refrigerator for use in gas mode at a Michigan camp without electricity- only would cool inside down to 50F regardless of ambient outdoor temp between 70-42F. It did cool well on 120v, but since the cooling in the propane gas operation, which I purchased the unit for, was far from adequate for food storage I promptly returned item- buyers beware.

We bought this to keep food cold while camping. We live at an altitude of about 4500 feet. In the house or the garage, when plugged into an A/C outlet and perfectly leveled, the temperature inside hovers around 42 degrees F. When it was cold, we put cold food inside and plugged it into the DC outlet in the car. When we got to our campsite in the mountains a few hours later, the temp had risen to about 65. When we leveled it at the campsite and powered it with propane gas, it stayed around 61 degrees. This is obviously not cold enough to keep food from spoiling.We contacted the manufacturer about the issues and were told that it must be level at all times, even in the car. They are aware that it does not perform properly above 5000 feet. They were very responsive and told us we could purchase an additional regulator that would help with the altitude problem. I appreciate the quick responses I got from them.I have not yet purchased the additional regulator because I have already spent over $400 and there is no guarantee that this will resolve the altitude problem. It certainly does not address the problem of not staying cold while in transit.I think that these restrictions should be part of the item description on Amazon. Because the product was not advertised properly, I am disappointed with the product and with Amazon.

I've re-written this review because of some strange results that I was getting during testing. With that said, the fridge seems to be very finicky and even slight changes in its setting (levelness, temperature, use - open/closing, and food packing) can cause a wide fluctuation in temperature and recovery time.One thing to do is learn how these refrigerators work before you buy. They are not as efficient as home refrigerators. Check out the video's of Trailer Life on YouTube such as this one (and several more) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2yF66M1wDgWhat I decided to do was setup an area where all power sources could be tested with the exact same external and internal conditions. This area was maintained at 78 degrees. An internal fan was placed in the fridge. These circulating fans can be purchased in RV catalogs for RV fridges. The fan is battery operated and was placed in the exact same location for all testing. Externally I added a small fan to pull air over the condenser fins. The fan was placed on the top of the fridge next to the power controls. I set a thermometer on the right hand side of the fridge just to the edge of the LPG stove pipe. This captures the temperature of the heat generated by AC, DC, and the LPG. The fridge was allowed to run for 8 hours and is completely empty other than the internal battery operated fan and the wire leading into the fridge box to monitor the temperature.The results are from best to worst results:1. AC - 32.2 degrees and stove pipe heat of 100 degrees2. AC from a DC inverter - 33.4 degrees and stove pipe heat of 110 degrees3. LPG (setting of low) and DC - 34.7 degrees and a stove pipe heat of 130 degrees (note the manufacture says not to run the fridge this way (on two sources), though I tried this, got pretty good results, and it does work it will void your warranty. By the way - some have complained about not having a thermostat for DC use. You can pickup a thermostat right here on Amazon for less than $15.00. It wouldn't take too savvy of an individual to wire it into the DC line to shut down the DC power if the fridge approached freezing.4. DC - 35.1 degrees and a stove pipe heat of 110 degrees5. LPG (setting of high) - 36.9 degrees and a stove pipe heat of 140 degreesI noticed that on AC and on the AC from the DC inverter the drop from room temperature down to the readings above was quicker than running on DC or LPG, with LPG being the slowest.It's important to note as some have here that the built in bubble level is way off. I used a regular carpenter's level setting on the closed lid and from inside the fridge to verify the fridge was level.Construction of the fridge is good, though I did find one rubber foot was loose. It was easy to tighten up. I was surprised none of the rubber feet are adjustable. A couple of wooden wedges taken when camping will be used to resolve the leveling issue. I contacted the seller about what was needed to use the fridge at high altitude (7000 feet) and promptly receiver a response to purchase a 9" W.C. regulator would take care of that issue. The response was short, but I had it in a matter of a few hours. After being unable to find a regulator for a reasonable price set to 9" W.C. I emailed the seller again and asked if they had a source for that product. I never received a response. I guess support from the seller is hit and miss.I can't stress the importance of following the instructions for use of an ammonia evaporative fridge like this. Do NOT pack the unit full of food and expect it to cool the food. This type of fridge works by the ability of the air in the fridge to be able to draw heat out of the contents of the fridge. If it's packed full of food and air can't move within the fridge, you'll find anything against the metal cooling plate inside will be cold but everything else in the fridge will be warm. Put the items that need to be colder nearer to the cooling plate in the back of the fridge. You don't need to freeze oranges, so put them towards the front. Use an RV fridge fan like I have used in the testing - you'll be surprised at how much faster this fridge will cool down and how much better it'll keep the contents cool.This type of fridge does not recover well from repeated opening/closing of the lid. Open, get everything you need and then close it up and leave it alone to recover. When you buy food at the store while out camping, take an ice chest with you and keep the purchased food cold (yes, with ice you also purchase). Putting cold food in the fridge will easily reduce the recovery time when the new items are put in. If the new items are boxed but are plastic bagged inside the box, why not remove the box? That'll allow better air flow and remove one more obstacle of the cool air getting to the food. Don't worry, you're not going to freezer burn your food with this fridge.My travel trailer only has AC fridges in it and I have planned for 3 dry camping trips next summer, so I needed a fridge that wouldn't need AC. Yes I have a generator but I don't want to run it when not needed. This is sort of an experiment in dry camping and off grid use of my travel trailer. This is why I purchased this fridge. When the LPG didn't return the results I had hoped for and considering the added expense and difficulty of purchasing a regulator to work at high altitude, I decided to test all methods of operation. As you can tell from the results AC is king with DC close behind. Since AC from a DC inverter looks pretty close to regular AC, my plan is to use solar panels to charge two deep cycle 6 volt batteries. Those batteries will be connected to my DC to AC inverter and that'll run my fridge, with DC and LPG being back up. The fridge never pulled more than 95 watts on AC. Now don't think that a little dash board solar panel is going to supply enough power to run this fridge, because it won't. Calculated out and then adding a day or more of safety into my plan I'll have at least six 48"x17" solar panels putting out a combined 15 amp at 12 volts DC. This will be enough to ensure my batteries stay charged and can run the fridge for two or possibly 3 days without any concern. I mentioned that I had a fan externally on this fridge for testing. I'll mount a small 12v muffin fan to do the same work this fan did. These fans take hardly measureable power so there won't be a problem with having it on. The internal battery fan can provide up to 40% better performance (that's not colder, that just means recover time, cool down time and such are improved), and the external fan can provide up to 50% better performance. I've used both on all my fridges, they certainly help.Would I like the fridge to be more efficient and operate better? Certainly, but my 1.3cuft fridge I had in my prior pop up trailer behaved very similar to this fridge, and it cost $600.00. For $400.00 for a 1.7cuft portable fridge, it's not bad at all. Just follow the instructions to the letter and use of this fridge should be with pretty good results.