Weldtite 3/16" Ball Bearings, Loose Precision Bearings, 1 bag x 24 balls

Arrived in timely manner.

Great value

Delighted with these - this is the second set I have bought over the last 5 years from this seller - and they have been good for approaching 20,000 miles on my bike. These bearings are for the back wheel - 8 each side for a Shimano hub at the rear, (9 each side at the front - you can fit in 10 each side or 9 each side at the back - but I can tell you from person experience - DON'T - they just clog, and you don't get enough grease between them.For a perfect bearing-service or repair, you'll need:- Cone spanners- Bike grease- WD40, (yes I know many people don't like this - but this stuff is great),- small screwdriver- Star drive and torque wrench if you have disc brakes, to get the discs off, (keep the bike grease WELL away from the discs, and wash your hands of grease when you handle these).Don't be scared about changing the wheel bearings. What happens after going through water which is too deep, too many times, is that grit gets in to the grease in the wheel-bearings, and then the water strips it out - leaving the bearings dry. Hard to notice when this happens - for me it has always been after fording deep water - but the bearings start to go "clang" a bit one one of them gets a bit chipped off - the loose shard clangs around, and the bearing with a bit missing will damage your hub. Initially I just changed the broken bearing when this first happened - but I learned that only makes the wheel unbalanced - because the bearings seem to wear down a bit, and do so evenly - so now, when I change one, I change them all, and on both sides!Pulling open the hub is just a matter of removing the wheel, (and the cassette for the back), and carefully prising off the covers, (careful with a gentle screwdriver, as these have brass inserts, and if you crease them, water will get in more easily next time around. Have a magnet handy to get catch the bearings, as they fall everywhere without grease to hold them in.Once they're out - clean the hubs carefully with a soft cloth, (I also use a bit of WD40 to dissolve the old grease - some will say that is sacrilege as the WD40 eats in to the bearings then evaporates - but not a drama if you wipe it all away, and it dissolves old-grease really well). Then carefully dry off any remaining WD40, and put on new bike grease - put lashings on, as you can always wipe away any excess.Then pop the bearings in one at a time till you have the right number - the grease will hold them in place. DON'T put in too many bearings - you'll regret doing so. Once they're in, replace the axle and inner hub, (which will hold the bearings in when you turn the wheel over to do the other side). Once you've done that - tighten up the cones till finger-tight, and you'll notice the wheel turns really nicely - then use the cone-spanners to tighten in place, and you're good to go!!

Despatched promptly, 3/16” ball bearings seem to do the job as matched the number required per my road bike wheel requirements - but not been in place for any length of time to test longetivity.

I got 2 wheels and tyres for a kids bike from my local recycling yard . Wheels and tyres fine bearings rough . Undid cones to check inside and the balls were done .Thought a trip to H*lfords would get some balls . After all their probably the biggest bike shop in Britain . But no , they only sell “ caged” bearings , I would have needed 2 at £3.99 then had to break the balls out of them . Crazy .These were a no brainer. Wheels good as new . I am not a fan of these cartridge bearings they fit to everything now .

Ok

Al good many thanks

It’s a bearing, what else can I say.