Beckmann KB1TK1 Raised Pond Size 1

The only reason for four, not five stars was the unintelligible manual, otherwise excellent. Here's how to build it, step by step. Practical Instructions for Constructing the Beckmann Garden Pool.Before doing anything decide if you intend to paint or stain the pool. If yes, then do this before assembling. Choose the best ‘face’ of the battens to form the outside of your pool.Make yourself comfortable on a low stool within a free area of about 2 metres by 1.5 metres. Stack the boards to your right if you’re right-handed. You will notice that two of the 71 boards have holes drilled through the face of the board as well as through the edges. Begin by taking one of these face-drilled boards and thread a steel cable through so that about 150mm projects through. Bend the cable back across the inside face of the board and fix it with a staple. This is only a temporary fixing to secure the end of the cable. Do the same with the other cable.Now thread a further five boards onto the cables, not forgetting to put a black, plastic spacer between each board. You should now have six boards lying flat in front of you with the first board to your right and the cables leading away to your left.Continue threading spacer and board in batches of five or six until you have a total of 34 boards threaded. Now thread on one of the two L brackets without using spacers. Thread the next board on, again without spacers, and continue with spacer/board until you have a further 34 boards threaded, counting from the L bracket.Now thread on the other L bracket, again without spacers. Next comes the last of the plain boards, no spacers, then spacers and the last board, which should be the other one of the two boards with holes through the face. (I had two spacers left over?)You should now have the two boards with face holes side by side as in Skizzle 5, (or diag. 5), in your instruction manual. Temporary tack the ends of the cables with staples.Stand the framework upright, but upside down, in a rough circle around you. Bring the two L brackets together and bolt them with the two small bolts, no washers.If you are siting your pond against a wall or backing onto shrubbery etc, (i.e. where the back of the pond wont be seen), push the four hex shank bolts through the four holes from inside face out, place the two plates on the bolts, then washers and loosely screw on the nuts. Free the top cable from one of the boards and feed it round the bolt, as in diag. 5, behind the bolt head, and tighten the nut with a spanner until the cable bites into the wood. Repeat with the bottom cable. Because your pond will be against a wall/fence or shrubbery the protruding bolts wont be seen.Now, working away from the bolted ends of the cables, push each board back against its neighbour, top and bottom, until you arrive back at the free ends of the cables. Use a pair of pliers to tension the cable and feed it around the adjacent bolt head as previously described. Double check there are no gaps in the framework and tighten the nuts. Repeat for the other loose cable.You should now have a fairly rigid framework ready to place in its final position.Before you do that, however, there are some points to consider;Whether standing on soil, gravel or pavings, the bottom of the framework will be in permanent contact with moisture. Consequently, the thing will eventually rot.My solution was to hammer one 25mm galvanised roofing tack into the foot of each alternate board, leaving the head projecting approx. 12mm. This will maintain a gap between board and paving.An additional problem was; once the pool was in position, how to contain the grit sand, (which must be laid under the pool liner), to stop it trickling away through the spaces between the boards? This was solved by cutting some old vinyl floor covering into 50mm wide strips and stapling them around the inside perimeter so that they formed a continuous barrier to contain the sand.The last job before righting the framework and moving it into position was to staple some foil backed foam, or similar, over any projecting nuts, wires or bars to protect the liner.Once the framework is in its approximate position, don’t be in too much hurry to fit the liner. Instead, let it stand for a few days while you get used to the idea. You are bound to re-arrange it slightly before you are happy with its final position. I moved my framework a dozen or so times, albeit small moves, before I was satisfied with the position. Once you are happy, pour a layer of grit sand into the framework making sure any projecting stones, sharp angles etc are covered.Now for the pool liner. Unfold the liner and, if possible lay it in the sun for a few hours to soften it. Fold the liner lengthways in the middle. Lay the liner on top of the framework, making sure it is equidistant from each end and the middle. Unfold the liner and make sure it is roughly covering the framework equally. I used a dozen cheap plastic clamps to hold the edges of the liner to the battens.Then, alternatively loosening the clamps one by one, allow the liner to settle until about a third of it is resting on the sand. Now use a hosepipe to start filling your pool, adjusting the folds as neatly as possible. You may have to stop the water flow periodically to make further adjustments to the liner. As the pool fills and the liner settles, move round the pool re-adjusting the clamps until the pool is about two thirds full. Now make the final folds in the liner as neatly as possible. Use the clamps to hold the folded liner.As my pool position was about three inches off the garage wall; and I intended to cover the back edge of the framework/liner with artificial grass, I tried to push the folds towards the back as much as possible. Once you are happy with the folds in the liner, continue filling the pool to within an inch of the top. Then trim the top edge of the liner with scissors, leaving about 3 inches of liner above the framework. Make any final adjustments to the liner folds then work your way round the framework, re-fitting the clamps as you work, folding in the top of the liner behind itself, so that you finish with a neat, folded top edge about one inch or so below the top of the battens. As I said before, I intended to cover the back edge of the framework with artificial grass, so I left the liner proud at the back, only folding and cutting where the liner showed. All that remains is to fix the screws and washers through the liner folds just above the water line. Job done.

This is a nice pond.It is cheaper and has greater volume than some other raised ponds but they tend to come preformed. This is flat packed. German instructions with no English available. The diagrams are for lots of different size variations too. After trying to type the instructions into word and then google translate with limited success I followed other peoples instructions on Amazon, See review by aitch.Two of the wooden slats have extra holes. Put tape on these so you remember which ones they are. I put some black wood screws in the bottom of the slats so the wood does not lie in wet over winter.Lay the slats out with 2 washers inbetween each. The L shaped brackets go one at the end and one in the middle. The slats with extra holes go at each end and will join each other. Thread the wires through top and bottom. Make sure the L bracket in the middle is the correct way round with screw holes to attach to its opposite one. Bring the ends together and screw the L brackets together. Make sure there is the same number of slats on each side.The slats with extra holes are to join and screw the plates in which hold the wire. The screw on the pond end has a square end that goes into the wood when it it tightened. I got some wire clamp holders to be double safe as well to attach the loose wire after it in in the clamps attached to the wood.I chose to dig 2 holes in the ground leaving a bit in the middle for the middle clamp. I bought a 3mX4m liner off ebay. 0.5mm thick it is thicker than the liner that comes with the pond. I also bought pond underlay to protect the liner from stones and used the original liner as underlay too as well as some sand. I put some wooden planks on sand using a spirit level then put some slabs on top as a base.When filling up if you get in take your shoes off so you can feel if there are any stones on your shoes.Be careful trimming the liner. It is easy to accidentaly create a new lowest point for the water level. I attached liner to the slats using 16mm black screws and rubber washers. I bought a piece of 0.5mX5m liner to go over the top of the liner to cover the folds and create a straight edge. I also used some double sided pond repair tape to keep some more of the folds in.I have marginal plants in pond pots 10cm below the surface attached to the sides of the pond on hooks and a lily in a pot at the bottom. I got a solar fountain 180l/h which is surprisingly good and goes about 45cm high in bright sun and also works in the day without sun with the solar panel on the roof of my shed.I plan to get something small to help frogs to get in and out that is not big enough for cats to use.My first fish will go in this weekend.The pictures are before I finished doing the top of the liner

I bought this pond for my Dad for Father's Day as a surprise. It was delivered promptly in a small box and everything was packed neatly. Me and my fiancé connected the wooden slats together with the help of a gentlemans review on this site (it is simpler than it looks but use this review as the instructions are German and pictures not very good).It's easy to transport as we just undone the 'L' brackets holding the 2 sides together and we set it up so the back was flat and the front in the '8' shape like on the photos. We used a big price of old carpet to cover the brackets to protect the liner and literally put the liner and and filled with water, making folds around the edges as it filled up. We then put plants and fish in and used a drill to secure the stainless steal screws and plastic washers through the liner into the wood. We did buy more stainless steel screws and plumbing washers as you only get about 5 with the pack.Looks absolutely gorgeous, and in hindsight so so so easy to install and no digging! Definitely recommend :)P.s. Photo it before liner was trimmed and before fully finished but gives you an idea of size

Instructions should go in bin unless you can figure out the language barrier! Easy enough to put up! Threading the wire through each slat is abit tedious, which will eventually be holding the pond together! Might need a drill to go through some of the holes for the wire do not try miss them out! But great pond, good looking over all!! Mine does not look like the kidney shaped pond in picture! (Far from it) just a oval shape pond!