TIME-SERTM14x1.5 Oil pan Thread Repair kit

I purchased this kit to repair a torqued out sump plug on a 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser. The instructions that came with it are a bit sparse, but it is not a difficult job to do, Youtube has a couple of videos of people using the kit if you're at all unsure. You will need a tap socket if you do not have a 12 point socket set, a Lisle 70900 (1/2" drive) or similar. The final driver that sets the new steel thread in place has a smaller square shank than the other three tools, but I was able to use an open ended wrench, so no problem. The most important detail is that it worked perfectly, and I have no more oil leak!

The Time-Sert kit saved me A LOT of money. The cost of an aftermarket oil pan was $680.00 and then there would have been the time and hassle of installing it. In less than 10 minutes I had threads in my existing oil pan that were as good as new. I recommend watching a few Youtube videos on how it works before you perform the work. Take your time and you will have the same good results that I did. Good luck!

This product has saved my butt big time. But the guide to keep center needs to be a tighter fit, it was too loose and wouldn't drill and tap perfectly square with the existing hole. But it still works, everything that. But with that being said the cutting tools are very sharp, and still are. Over all good set but could be better.

On the first oil change after I purchased the car last year, I saw a note written on the oil pan in paint marker saying that the oil drain had been repaired – hand tools only. The plug was leaking a drop or two per day as indicated by the oil stain on the garage floor.I didn’t have time to do anything but put the plug back in, tighten it gently and hope that it would not leak or fall out while I was driving. It continued to leak a few drops per day.I checked YouTube to see what others had done to fix this problem. Apparently stripped oil plugs are common on cars with aluminum oil pans especially when the oil was changed at a jiffy lube type of service center. Technicians at these types of locations often use power tools to remove and tighten the oil drain plugs resulting in over tightening and stripped threads.I found various ways to fix the issue ranging from rubber plugs that were good for only one or two oil changes, a goofy looking contraption that uses a magnetic plug, repairs done with JB Weld, and oversized plugs that supposedly made new threads when they were installed.A video by South Main Garage showed the use of a time-sert repair on a vehicle similar to mine.A couple of videos said to simply install a longer plug made of a bolt with the correct thread configuration so as to get past the stripped portion of the oil pan. Not being familiar with the previous repair and oversized plug used for that repair, I opted for this plan. After a few trips to local hardware stores and a bit of research on the net, I found a bolt that would fit. I prepared it according to the video recommendation and set it aside until the next oil change.When the next oil change came due, after I had drained the oil, I installed the longer bolt that I had prepared – but it did not work. Whoever had made the previous repair had used an oversized drain plug and in doing so, had increased the size of the oil pan threads so that a standard sized plug would no longer fit.I believe that the oversized plug repair was make-shift at best so I bit the bullet and ordered a Time-sert kit from Amazon. The kit arrived two days later.While waiting for the kit, I checked the Time-sert site for details and specifications on the kit. I found that the oil plug opening had to be smaller than the drill bit provided in the kit for it to work. Using a digital caliper, I measured the oversized plug and compared that measurement to the drill size specification from the Time-sert website.The oversized plug had reamed the oil plug opening out so that it was seven thousandths of an inch smaller that the time-sert drill. If the over sized plug had been larger, the time-sert repair would not have worked and I would have had to replace the oil pan for a proper repair.YouTube videos showed the installer using a standard ratchet to drill, thread and otherwise prepare the oil plug opening others showed the use of a power drill. The configuration on my car was too tight for me to use a ratchet or a power drill.I was stumped for a minute on how to proceed but then remembered the ratcheting wrenches that were in my tool box. The Time-sert instructions specified what size 12-point socket would work for each of the implements – drill, tap, reamer etc.The ratcheting wrenches provided ample space for me to operate the Time-sert tools. However, the drill and reamer required pressure in order to cut. With only 7 thousandths of an inch to remove, pressure on the drill required only my finger on the end of the drill.Cutting the seat for the insert required considerably more pressure. The sharpness of the tool end prevented the use of my finger to provide the required pressure. I tried using a ratchet handle but it tended to slide off the end of the reamer. Thinking for a minute, I got one of my ratcheting wrenches that was large enough to fit over the reamer shaft but small enough to ride on the reamer collar. Using this wrench, I was able to apply enough pressure to get the insert seat prepared.Even with the wrench on the collar, cutting the seat for the insert took a long time. I was tempted to stop before the tool indicated a full cut but that would risk the chance of a leak or other failure of the installation. I didn’t want to do this again so kept on until the seat was fully cut.Tapping the threads requires the use of the alignment sleeve provided in the kit. The tap is so sharp that it would have been easy to start it crooked and ruin the installation.I used grease on both the tap and drill to catch any shavings that resulted from the process. Further, after drilling, threading and preparing the seat for the insert, I poured a couple of quarts of oil through the engine to flush out any shavings that remained.The new insert threaded in with my fingers. With the insert in as far as I could get it with my fingers, I threaded the installation tool all the way in to be sure that the insert was set. I did not use thread locker.Finally, to prevent any further possibility of thread damage or the possibility of the insert backing out, I installed a Fumoto valve for future oil changes.There are no leaks so far and none are expected.

I stripped my oil pan on my V-Strom 650 because I over torqued the oil drain bolt. I used this kit to repair the stripped threads and it worked very well. The only thing I would say is that you need to use the guide when tapping new threads in. If you don't tap the new threads in completely straight then your bolt will fail. I was able to torque the drain bolt to OEM settings although I did get some leaking. Once I added a rubber gasket I was good to go and no more leak!

Worked like a charm on my 2006 Jetta TDI! I bought a used Jetta TDI and when it came time to change the oil, I discovered that some oil change place or the previous owner had obviously over-cranked the oil plug and "fixed it" by applying silicon sealer. I did not want to go the oversize bolt route and cause more problems. Time-Sert seemed like the way to properly fix the problem without having to remove the entire oil pan (not exactly simple on the Jetta.)Instructions were straight forward and clear. The product worked like a champ! Highly recommended!