STEICO 4 in 1 Soft Underlayment for Laminate, Engineered Wood Floor, Vinyl, LVT/LVP 3mm 1/8 Inch 90 SqFt with soundproofing Natural Green Wood Fibre and Excellent Airborne and Impact Sound Insulation

leider wurden nur ca 8,5 qm geliefert anstatt der wie beschriebenen 90qm, das liegt vermutlich daran das die einheiten falsch bzw gar nicht umgerechnet wurden ich habe wie schon beschrieben 90sqft erhalten.ALLE PRODUKTE VON STEICO KANN ICH NUR EMPFEHLEN....

It is hard to write a complete review of this product because I am in an upstairs condo unit and can't really say how the neighbors below feel about the noise transmission. Let's just say that they have made no complaint. These pieces of underlayment are easy to put down (I have to confess that I didn't put them in at a 45 degree angle to the flooring). The first package gave us a lot of green dust, but later packets seemed not to. I suspect that the difference was that after box 1 (I used 8 boxes), I figured out that the best way to "cut" these pieces was by using a straightedge and scoring the piece with a chisel or screwdriver and then just folding on the scoring -- easier, cleaner and faster than using a blade.This product also had the highest Delta IIC rating I could find for an underlayment. The ratings for underlayment are very misleading. They show ratings for IIC and STC that are based on particular configurations of concrete and wood joist subfloors that may exist somewhere, but probably not in my 1980's condo. The Delta IIC, on the other hand, provides a rating that indicates how the underlayment performed in deadening impact noise when added to a subfloor. Thus it is a measure of how the product adds to a subfloor configuration. Maybe this isn't the best way to judge, but when 1/4" of cork has a Delta IIC of 24, you get a pretty good picture that perhaps this 3mm with a Delta IIC of 25 is the real deal for sound deadening.I had used some roll foam underlayment in two closets and it was a pain in the butt to roll out and get to lie down. These lie flat from the get go and it was much easier to lay down.

I used this floor underlayment on a 360 sq ft floating floor. It worked great, installed very easily. You can cut it with a simple swipe of a utility knife and then a bend and the product will break on your line. It WILL make a ton of green dust everywhere while you are installing. After installation our floor was solid and it does seem to have a sound dampening property because it is noticeably quieter in our basement under this floor than previously.

Overall, this is a decent product. It helps capture moisture and is a great price. I thought it would be thicker, and wished it was slightly thicker. I like that it is sustainable. It is easy to cut. However, when using it, green fibers were everywhere and irritated our throats. Some boards were also mildly with black spots, which we did not like. It is flat, but the texture is soft and we wanted harder. Overall, it is a decent product for our budget and did the trick.

There is something not right going on here. When I first ordered this a year ago, these were 6mm (¼ inch) thick boards. All I did was hit the re-order button as I was a few boards short, what arrived were 3mm (⅛ inch) boards that I now have to double up, which makes them even more expensive then they were before. The only reason why I was short about 5 boards to begin with was because my last order of boards came severely banged up, dented and even opened and repackaged. One batch had been rewarded with some sort of movers plastic wrap, which, after removal, there were chunks missing from one side and tire treads on the other side. It took so long to get them here (they were delivered a week late for next day prime back in January 2018) that I didn’t even use them for the remodel that I had originally purchased them for and had to shelve all 9 packages for 11 months since I new I would be working on renodeling another apt in this building once it became available. I own a 90 year old 7 apt tenement building. And honestly, this stuff has been a nightmare to work with. It works okay on the first floor, but does not significantly reduce impact noise significantly when used with laminate. It does help give you a more level surface without flaws in the subfloor, but it doesn’t have enough mass to significantly benefit the IIC rating of the flooring system on an upper level in a wood frame building. Do yourself a favor and get some rolled sheets of rubber underpayment at 5mm-6mm with a lb of weight per square feet. It’ll cost you exactly the same amount as the 6 mm Steico, and it will actually work at reducing transfer of sound. And that needs to only be part of a multi-layer flooring system. If you’re remodeling and planning on a floating laminate floor, the layers should be as follows:laminate flooring————————————————————Floating 5-6mm rubber underpayment taped to subfloor at joints with double sided carpet tape or attached with polyurethaning adhesive————————————————————½-¾” plywood or osb sub flooring layer #2:laid perpendicular to layer #1 without any joints lining up with layer #1, and with ⅛” gap between each board, with the gap filled in with acoustical flexible caulking as well as the perimeter of the entire subfloor. This layer will be stapled or nailed to, and green glued to the layer beneath to create one solid board that spans the entire floor for the entire house. None of the fosters should be long enough to make it pass layer #1.————————————————————Green glue————————————————————½-¾” plywood or osb sub flooring layer #1:Do not mechanically attach this layer or layer #2 to the structure. This is a floating subfloor. Just caulk between the joints of every adjacent board and around the perimeter, then add the green glue attach layer #2 to layer #1————————————————————Another layer of sound absorbing underpayment: you have multiple options here. You can use another 5-6mm rubber underlayment, or you can use cork/rubber mix, or Steico. But don’t use cork by itself. Don’t use a foam underpayment. And if you do use cork/rubber mixed underpayment, add an additional layer of that paper roll used to protect floors when you paint or do drywall, like ram board or rosin core paper or even that tar house wrap paper. The reason is that even though cork may diffuse airborne sound, as should Steico, it’s still a fibrous material that breathes, and you want to separate the air space that this porous underpayment layer exists in from the one where the floating subfloor exists. And unfortunately, plastic sheets for covering furniture when painting is just too fragile. Overlap all the paper or ram board and use duct tape to ensure the air space above and below are completely separated. If you’re using rubber underpayment here, you don’t need this paper layer as rubber already does this for you, so long as you properly tape the edges together. Don’t overlap the rubber.————————————————————If you have concrete subfloor:You’re doneIf you have wood sub flooring:There needs to be ½-¾” plywood or osb subflooring layer here that’s flat and free of obstructions, level, blah blah blah. This should be mechanically attached to your joist using galvanized deck screws (do not use stainless steel as they will not be able to withstand the sheer force over time without snapping) so that each screw penetrates the wood joist by ¾” attached at the recommended spacing between screws 8” in the field, 6” along the two edges and around the perimeter of the room. If like my building you have diagonally lain 4” wide subfloor boards, screw the subfloor in every 4” wherever there’s a joist just to make sure every one of those diagonally laid boards sandwiches between this subfloor and the joist each has it’s own screw squeezing that 4” board in place so it doesn’t move and squeak in the future.———————————————————-Joist. Any extra soundproofing added underneath this is your choice. At least add some pink batts. Screw the Roxul. You don’t need something twice as expensive for 1-2 dab in STC. Everything above should cover you for most if not all normal residential STC noise attenuation between floors. But do add 2 layers of ⅝” drywall with green glue downstairs for the ceiling, with or without RSIC clips and hat channels, and don’t use z-channels. They’re too easy to short out accidentally whether you’re a professional or DIYer.Final notes:-on this floor layering system, you should be able to install any finished flooring except for LVT or virgin vinyl as contact with rubber will cause staging to bleed thru. If. That’s the flooring you want, switch out the top layer of rubber underlayment with a foam underlayment.-always use a perimeter isolation strip. They’re foam, they go around the rooms against the walls to prevent all the layers of subflooring, floating or otherwise from making hard contact with any of the walls, thus preventing any flanking noise from traveling thru the structure.-yes you van carpet on top of this entire flooring club sandwich monstrosity, and yes, even with the rubber underlayment right below the carpet padding. Or you could adhere carpet tiles. It should still stop impact noise from traveling downstairs.-lastly be realistic. If someone stomps hard upstairs, they will hear it downstairs. But with this system, it should only sound like a soft thud thud thud. I’m talking about 9 year old with a temper tantrum banging and kicking and stomping in circles with smoke coming out of the ears. Otherwise, normal walking with heals on should pretty much be nonexistent noise. Luxury apts have a floor/ceiling assembly with a IIC rating of 65, I believe, and a minimum IIC of 50 for non luxury apts. go for the luxury. It’s worth it!