Solary Magnetic Induction Heater - Handhled Bolts Heating Removel Tool with 10 Coils and Portable Tool Box

Great tool, saves time, works great on exhaust/manifold bolts, O2 sensors, a lot safer than trying to use a torch.

So I have an old Mercedes convertible. The external electric fuel pump assembly connects by means of a hose assembly to steel tubing with a double-flare connection. The car is an '88 so of course that steel fitting was rusted solid. I soaked it for several days with PB Blaster but it never came free, even to the point of starting to round the tubing nut (yes I was using good quality flare nut wrenches).So I think, what I need is heat and I looked at the oxy/acetylene setup in the corner of the garage. Open flame/gasoline line... Well, no. So more soaking, tapping with a hammer, etc. over the course of a week. Finally gave up for a while. So while cruising around Youtube one evening I came across a video of someone using this unit to break free a bunch of rusty nuts. I though just what I need! Heat with no open flames!So when I finally received the unit I bent one of the coils so it would slip over the end of the cut gasoline hose and I could hold it around the frozen double-flare nut. I slipped and hose clamped a long piece of heater hose over the cut end of fuel suply hose to vent any vapors away from the work area.I got in a position where I could bail out from under the car in a hurry and gritted my teeth. Pushed the button. Fitting turned dull red in about 20 seconds. My long hose was spewing gasoline vapors but since there was no open flame they did not ignite. I turned the unit off and hit the hot fitting with cold water from a spray bottle to shock it, followed by another spray of PB Blaster.Put the wrenches on and the fitting came loose with barely any force. No damage to fitting and more imporantly no fire on me or the precious Mercedes. Success!Kind of an extreme example and a lot of $$ to spend for just one job but it really saved the day and I think the operation was as safe as it could be. Anyway it worked and I survived! A great addition to the tool cabinet, I'm sure I will use it again, but hopefully not again on a gasoline line!

UPDATE!!I sent an email to the company and they sent a replacement. They didn't ask for the old one back... My husband used the new one and he says it works great!My husband just tried using it for the first time. It doesn't work and the fan is constantly running.

I used this one time and it worked well. The second time I went to use it, it would not power on. Could not contact seller because they forwarded me to Amazon, then Amazon said I would have to contact seller. It was an endless loop. I called the seller every day, and they never answer. Luckily, I bought a warranty with it otherwise I would be out all of my money, instead of just a portion of it.

Had to return because I have a pace maker.Looked of good quality. Wish l could have kept it.

Let the torch stay in the corner of the shop. This nut heater is quicker, cleaner, far less explosive, and really takes the effort out of removing rusty exhaust system hardware. I wish I had this thing for the last thirty years.

It has saved me so much time working on rusty cars and trucks it just takes a while to get the bigger bolts hot enough but much better then a torch

My 2003 Subaru Forester needed new front disk brake pads, and I thought I would have to remove the caliper mounting bracket to do the job. So, I removed the two bolts that hold the caliper to the mounting bracket of the driver's side and then began trying to loosen the two bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the steering knuckle. (Big mistake it was not necessary to remove the mounting bracket.) I sprayed the bolts with generous amounts of PB Blaster penetrating liquid, doing that several times to give the liquid time to lubricate the bolts. Then I went to work with my 3/8-inch ratchet and socket, but the bolts wouldn't budge. More PB Blaster applications with time in between, followed by more ratchet work with no joy. Then I got out my two long breaker bars with 1/2-inch sockets, and when I used the longer bar, there was movement of the bolt, but it was the head of the bolt twisting off! Trials with easy-out bolt removers after drilling a hole in the middle of the bolt didn't move anything, so I just remounted the caliper, installed new pads and resumed normal driving.I began worrying that the caliper bracket might come off the steering knuckle and started searching for solutions. This bolt heater looked like a promising method, so I ordered one from Amazon, and tried using the unit today. I removed the caliper again, and soaked the connection between the caliper holder with the steering knuckle and the two bolts (actually I had twisted both bolts head off in my earlier struggle). After giving the PB Blast time to penetrate, I held the Hot Rod up so the coil I chose could hover over the bolt hole. After about 30 seconds of holding the red start button, smoke started rising from the area of the hole. Then I put the Hot Rod down and hammered an "easy-out" bolt extraction bit into the hole in the bolt and tried to twist the bolt out. No result. I tried again, and still no movement.The instructions for the Hot Rod make me think the unit isn't going to work for my application. Here is a quote: "Activate the HOT ROD by pushing the power switch. Place the Coil around the frozen nut for an initial 2 to 4 seconds, then move it away. Attempt to remove the nut with a wrench or socket. If the nut remains frozen, apply the Coil for an additional 2 to 4 seconds and try the wrench again. Generally, there is no need to heat a nut to a red-hot condition to free it from the corrosion holding it to the bolt."2 to 4 seconds probably isn't enough heating time to heat the bolt in my bracket and steering knuckle: just too much mass of iron, and I worry about the unit burning out if I keep holding it in heating mode. An acetylene-oxygen torch may be my only hope, and that may mean taking the vehicle to a mechanic ($$$).Unless, of course, I opt to buy a replacement steering knuckle and install that with new and well lubricated bolts everywhere. The only worry there is removing the hub nut to get the old knuckle off. A month ago, I had an epic struggle removing the hub nut on the passenger side prior to replacing the CV axle for that side, and for days hammered and twisted to destroy the nut and get the thing off the axle.