Insulating Film for Windows, Transparent Glazing Film 4.5m2 (3m x 1.5m)

Summary:The Insulating Film for Windows is a practical and efficient product that significantly aids in maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature. It's a great solution for those seeking to reduce energy costs and create a more sustainable living environment.Positive Aspects:1. The transparent glazing film is easy to install. The instructions are clear and the process is straightforward, even for those who aren't particularly handy.2. Once installed, the film is virtually invisible. It doesn't obstruct the view or alter the appearance of the windows.3. The product is highly effective in insulating the windows, noticeably reducing drafts and helping to maintain a consistent indoor temperature.4. The size of the film (3m x 1.5m) is generous and can cover a large window or be cut to fit multiple smaller windows.5. The film is durable and holds up well over time, even in harsh weather conditions.Areas for Improvement:1. The adhesive used to secure the film could be stronger. In some cases, it may require additional tape or adhesive to ensure a secure fit.2. While the film is generally easy to install, it can be a bit tricky to get it perfectly smooth and free of wrinkles or bubbles.3. The film could benefit from being a bit thicker. While it's effective as is, a thicker film might provide even better insulation.Overall, the Insulating Film for Windows is a valuable tool for energy conservation and comfort. With a few minor improvements, it could be even better.

It is now the second year I'm putting up this film, the 4th time to mount it (3 windows last year, redoing one of the windows this year), and it seems that each time I'm learning something new about what works and what doesn't.We live in a flat in a converted Victorian building, with quite large (about 2.4 x 1.2m) and fairly draughty windows in spite of them being double-glazed -- the wooden sashes are getting a bit worn out and leaky. Also, the windows have an arch at the top, so the top frame is curved rather than straight. This means that I have to attach the sticky tape in short cut segments -- rather than one continuous strip -- at the top to span the arch.So, lessons I've learned:1. Particularly for large windows (but maybe not exclusively), it helps to put TWO parallel strips of tape rather than just one on the frame, if space allows, so that the film attaches on double the width of sticky tape. Wider tape = better adhesion! Also, make sure the frame is properly degreased, dust-free and dry, and push hard on the tape (when first sticking it on the frame) and then on the film against the tape to remove any trapped air bubbles, etc. I just run my thumb up and down the length of the strip to ensure it all makes good contact.2. Once the sticky tape is on the frame, don't peel off the backside strip until you're ready to put up the film, to prevent dust from getting on the sticky part in the meantime. Dust is your enemy on this one!3. On my large-size windows the technique that seems to be most successful to get the film properly aligned (wrinkle-free) on the frame is to attach first the top-centre of the film, then the bottom centre (make sure it's aligned with the top), then stretch the film left and right and attach the middle sections of the film on the sides of the frame. Do not push too hard on the film against the tape at this stage, this is just to make sure you got the position right. Then, once you're sure the film is straight (doesn't kink), stretch the film towards the corners of the frame and stick these last. So kinda go centre-to-corners. Make sure the film attaches without major wrinkles, those will become failure points once you heat it up to stretch it later!4. Once the film is in the right position, I make sure it's properly stuck to the tape along the whole length. This bit is super-important, as one weak point is sufficient to cause the whole thing to come loose.5. Heat the film up with a blow-dryer. Carefully! The heating stretches the film and pulls it against the sticky tape, so don't overdo it! You want it stretched, but not so much as to peel it off the tape! Remember, the film is not mechanically clamped on the frame, it's only stuck with glue, and that's what will give way first.6. I typically leave it as is overnight to make sure it doesn't start peeling off (no instances lately, but... once bitten, twice shy) before I cut off the excess film, so that if it does start to peel off I still have enough film to the side to reattach it.For what it's worth, my first attempt at doing this mostly failed (the film peeled off in one corner of the window and I had to use scotch tape to stick it back on the frame... ugly!), while my latest attempt is the best by far. So it can work, but it requires a bit of skill.

Plenty of it, great instructions using the code, easy to install and looks great. Really pleased with the result

I used this on three windows and a glazed door in my sunroom. It can take a while to meticulously position the tape around your windows (but not as long as it takes to try and peel the backing off!) and you need to obviously spend a little time cutting each section of film to roughly the correct size (allowing for a little spare around each side). So it's not a quick job and you'll need a little bit of patience - not really a job to be done if you're in a hurry. The best part is using the hairdryer to smooth out the wrinkles and creases and, initially, it worked and looked really well. When I say initially, I mean for the first few hours. Then, the film started to peel off the double-sided tape! Believe me when I say that after making the effort and spending valuable time to be as thorough as possible, this is REALLY annoying.Having looked at previous reviews, it would appear that a lot of people have experienced the same problem - the adhesive tape simply isn't good enough!I didn't want to give up though, so, having bought far too much film for what I needed, I looked at buying some better quality double-sided tape to use with film I had leftover.And here lies the problem (I think)!Take a look at the reviews for double-sided tape and you'll notice that a lot of people complain that double-sided tape (from a variety of brands) isn't very good on vertical surfaces for holding things in place. Most complaints are from people who are trying to stick heavy pictures, tiles and mirrors to their walls.And this is true with secondary glazing. There is just too much "pull" from the film for the tape to handle. I'm sure there are engineers out there who could work out what the load is per cm² but I can guess that it must be quite a lot.Another interesting thing i noticed is that one particular brand mentioned that the adhesion is stronger after 24 hours.Bearing this in mind, and determined to try and make it work, I decided to have another go and risk using the same double-sided tape.This time, after fixing the film to the taped window frame I left it alone and didn't use the hairdryer until the next day.Then I heated the film with the dryer just enough to take out the creases/ripples - I tried to resist giving it any extra seconds of heat. This ensured, I hoped, that the strain on the double-sided tape was as minimal as possible (I have no idea how much this film can shrink).So far so good with this method - but it's only been a couple of days. I have a feeling that the quality of the tape is still an issue. It just doesn't feel sticky enough. Perhaps this is intentional, because it allows a certain amount of sticking, peeling and re-sticking when positioning the film. And this is the next issue with this product. It is really difficult to affix the film without creating some creases where it fixes to the tape. The instructions suggest you fit it from top to bottom which means that it hangs down infront of the tape and sticks to it while you're trying to position it. No problem- just peel it off enough to reposition it. But this, in itself is difficult, takes a bit of practice and, risks pulling the tape of the frame (I was also worried that it might affect the adhesive qualities of the tape). The temptation is to leave it as it is and try to press the crease out. DON'T DO THIS!!! It may look like it has sealed but I have noticed that it creates a tiny gap in the seal which compromises the film in that area.It is much easier to start from the BOTTOM of the window and work your way up. As long as you're accurate with the initial positioning (if you're not then you'll obviously risk fixing the film out of square) then this seems to be the easiest way to do it. I would recommend cutting the film at least three inches/10cm oversize. This will give you something to hold onto as you position it along the edges. Try to pull it as firmly as you dare as you work upwards and outwards. If there is too much slack I have noticed that this can create more creases where the film fixes to the tape.My conclusion though, is that the product isn't really good at what it's designed to do, simply because the tape isn't good enough. But, having never used another product, I can't say if it's worse than anything else you might be able to buy. If you can get hold of some really good double-sided tape, then I would try that - it MIGHT make a difference. But, having looked myself, the price of tape is ridiculous.Either way, good luck!*I will update this review over the coming hours/days/weeks.Update 18th March: I believe that leaving the DS tape to bond with each surface for 24 hours, along with ensuring that you heat the film as little as you can, ensures that this product works quite well. The next tip I would give is to ensure that you have ZERO creases in the film where it is fixed with DS tape (easier said than done to be honest but it's really important that you don't do this): it might appear to be fixed but what you've created is a miniscule weak spot for the air to get in and also for the film to try and peel away. On the whole, if you're really careful, and spend lots of time doing it properly, it works well. I just don't know if it's going to suit everybody's abilities or levels of patience!

Presa per "coibentare" una porta finestrata. Una volta pulita la finestra, mi sono messo all'opera e ho applicato il nastro biadesivo incluso nella confezione sul telaio. Tolto poi il lato coprente la colla tutto intorno al vetro e tagliato il pezzo di pellicola della lunghezza giusta. La posa meglio se fatta in due, così da tenere la pellicola un pò tesa. Attaccata bene alla colla del telaio e passato il phon caldo lungo tutta la superficie, si tende il tutto e risulta perfetta. Potete poi tagliare l'eccesso di pellicola dai bordi con un taglierino o anche delle forbicine. In giornata con fuori 13 gradi il vetro "nudo" è freddo, mentre quello coperto da pellicola risulta tiepido, indice che la camera d'aria che si crea funziona perfettamente. Consigliato!

Montaggio semplice e pensione perfetta una volta passato il phon, sembra quasi un vetro, non isola come un vero vetro ma se cercate di guadagnare qualche grado in una stanza che ha vetri singoli funziona