Steer with Confidence! 🚀
The Monroe Shocks & Struts Magnum SC2962 Steering Damper is a high-performance component designed to enhance vehicle control and comfort. Ideal for trucks, vans, SUVs, and CUVs, it effectively reduces vibrations in the steering system, ensuring a smoother driving experience. With its durable construction and all-weather fluid, this steering damper promises consistent performance and a longer service life.
Brand | Monroe |
Auto Part Position | Top |
Style | Modern |
Vehicle Service Type | Truck |
Exterior Finish | Black |
Material | Iron |
Manufacturer | Monroe Shocks & Struts |
Item Weight | 3.75 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 19.3 x 4 x 2.7 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | SC2962 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Manufacturer Part Number | SC2962 |
OEM Part Number | SC2962 |
J**.
Two thumbs up
My 2001 Grand Cherokee needed the track bar, steering bar, drag link, tie rods (4), sway bar links (2) and the stabilizer shock replaced so after much researching and reading I decided on the Moog product line with the Monroe Stabilizer Shock and SA1997 Cover.My two major deciding factors were:1. Quality2. PriceMoog exceeded both of these. I really liked that the bushings were already pressed, or install, in place on the replacement parts. The only really extra thing I had to do was screw in the zerk fitting nipple into each of the 4 tie rod ends and fill them with grease once I was done.The Monroe Stabilizer Shock had better reviews than the Moog counterpart, so I gave it a try. Glad I did. Very smooth steering with no adverse jerking of the wheel when I encounter the occasional pothole. The only con is I had to purchase a cover for the exposed rod. SA1997 for about $5. Still cheaper for the pair than the Moog. I can't say the Moog is better or not, just that it was more expensive for about the same kind of reviews.Installation was straight forward and really no problem at all. I did use Deep Creep on all the old rusty bolts a day ahead of time and again about an hour before starting. They came off with little unexpected effort.I assembled the new tie rod ends into the new steering and drag links, then adjusted them to the same overall length of the old rusty ones I pulled off.One bit of advice if you haven't done this before and are going to do it yourself. Remove the old track bar last and install the new track bar first. The axel will shift and it is easier to crank around under your rig without the steering linkage in the way. I used plain old nylon rachet straps (2 of them) to pull the axel back into place to get the 2nd bolt into the track bar. Not hard at all.The sway bar links, steering bar and drag link all went in easy peasy. Torqued everything down to spec, installed the included cotter pins, greased the 4 fittings and drove it to the alignment shop. Took me about 4 hours from set up to clean up...and most of that time was beer, youtube and chatting with my neighbor. You can do this in much less time. It is not a difficult task.I noticed a significant difference in steering right away. Now after a month, it still feels solid and smooth with very little wiggle (less than 1/2 in, was about 2 1/2 inches before) in the steering wheel. I am sure this is from the still stock steering box with 270,000 miles on it.A side note: You may want to consider replacing your ball joints, or having them done, if your tire has wiggle from top to bottom. Mine were still tight and right so I did not replace them, but you'll want to if they're loose.Overall this was a tremendous improvement to my Jeep. Well worth my time and money. I recommend using the Moog brand. Very good value for the price.
J**N
Works for now, time will tell (4.5" Wj on 33 M/T's)
If you're a Jeep guy, you know that steering stabilizers are NOT intended to fix death wobble - they mitigate it for a short time, until the shocks take too much abuse, begin to fail, and the death wobble returns. That being said, after swapping my entire front end (axle and all), I wanted to replace the puny stock stabilizer to something much more significant since I'm now running a 4.5" lift and 33" M/Ts. The install is simple, if your Jeep isn't too rusty- 2 bolts to remove the old, two bolts to install the new (you may need one of the longer bolts and a spacer if you currently have the tiny bone stock stabilizer. I had a spare bolt, spacer, and nut laying around.Until I get around to replacing my tie rod ends (all four, including drag link ends), I have two of these stabilizers on my Jeep because I need to be able to drive without fear of hitting a pothole. One is in the stock location, and the second stabilizer is bolted to the drag link and the track bar (search for "IRO Iron Rock Offroad auxiliary steering stabilizer" for help with this setup). For the time being, this works for me. I'll try to add some pics later.
M**Y
Quality product
Quality product
A**G
Excelente
La camioneta vibraba antes de ponerlo ya cundo lo instale todo quedo muy bien y estable
T**2
Better than expected!
Had a wobble on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee coming from the right front when a bump was encountered.Looked into the high end brands and went for the Monroe/Tenneco #SC2962.Much larger in diameter than the stock unit,which was a 1" unit,(if that)Got the boot for it,installed everything in minutes (on my lunch break) and on the way home............no wobbles!Seriously impressed here. I am running a 2 1/2" lift with A/T tires,good tight front end with all new front & Rear stabilizer mount bushings,spring pads,good joints and this addition really keeps me rolling worry free.Happy Jeep owner here!
R**B
Seems to be working
I haven’t crashed my vehicle yet, so apparently it’s doing its job.
C**D
Bought this to eliminate a funky side-to-side movement...
2004 Grand Cherokee:Bought this to eliminate a funky side-to-side movement, especially during slight turns over uneven roads.This unit is ~30% beefier than the stock one and has a metal case (versus the factory's plastic-cased dampener). It does not look, nor is configured like the factory dampener (see attached photo).You'll need 2-15mm wrenches, because there is a bolt and nut holding the stock dampener at the end closest to the wheel. The other end is a lone bolt. You won't need to put the car on jacks. I just made sure my front wheels were pointed straight.After replacing the old and tired factory one with this new one - the funky side-to-side movement did not improve all that much. But, sharper turns and U-turns are noticeably smoother and tighter.If I were to do this again, I would purchase a heavier duty off road use type dampener - for a few dollars more.
A**I
Super
Super
P**
Bueno
Se ve bueno, solo que si lo comparo en el que tenía se siente igual, no tiene mucha fuerza, espero que me dure
M**E
Out of the box easily installed
Fit with no problem
P**N
Thank you Amazon
It works amazing thank you
Trustpilot
2 months ago
2 days ago