Ardex Feather Finish White/Blanco Self-Drying Cement Based Bag 10 Lbs (1, White)

Long story short, we used Ardex Feather Finish to encapsulate cutback residue (mastic, glue, etc...) on concrete that was left from asbestos tile in our basement storage room. Which it worked perfectly!A little insight: Our first "major" winter project in our new home was to clean/renovate our basement storage room. The floor was partially covered in asbestos floor tile. We had the tile professionally removed, but the job did not include the removal of the cutback residue leftover from the tile. We thought about just covering the concrete with vinyl plank and call it a day, but the cutback residue had a really musty smell, which kind of stunk. (no pun intended).After doing a little research and getting a recommendation from a friend (who's a contractor), we decided on the Ardex Feather Finish. It's main purpose is to prep your subfloor for a covering, whether it's carpet, tile, or some sort of plank flooring (wood, laminate, etc...). It can be applied to ALMOST any surface to including old floor adhesive. Which is what we were looking for. We ended up using DriCore for the floor covering.READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Probably the most important thing!Since our surface was already clean from having the tile removed (they washed the whole room down, floor to ceiling), there wasn't much prep. I did wet mop the area one more time to be safe, and let it dry overnight. It was winter when we did this, so we had space heater in the room to bring up with ambient temp. We live in Minnesota, and the room is unconditioned, so it was pretty chilly in there. You need to make sure the surface you are applying it to is the minimum temp recommend in the instructions or you could run into issues with it properly adhering.I started with a small test area, about 12"x12". I wanted to make sure it would stay adhered to the cutback residue. I checked the test area after 24hrs, and it was rock hard. I then proceeded to do the rest. I used a 12" flat trowel with a sweeping motion and feathered the area until it was pretty smooth. It levels itself, so you don't have to be super picky about getting it perfect. If I remember correctly, the consistency is like heavy whipping cream, maybe a little thicker...(It's not like mortar you use to lay floor tile). It does dry fast, so only mix as much as you can work with!I let it sit for a week to be safe (cold basement), before installing the DriCore,. I did apply this a year prior to writing this review, and it's still sound and holding well. We did contemplate just leaving the feather finish uncovered, but Ardex states you should use something over it. Although this was a storage room, we didn't want to risk damaging it, or have it wear through. That's when we decided on the DriCore, which has worked well. Hopefully this helps!Cheers!

Wow, this is beautiful! I finally ordered this stuff and applied it on my backsplash. Did i have every thing necessary to prep and do this professionally? Heck no but it still worked lovely. I used a spatula from my kitchen and sanded in between layers with a nail file. I did this on a snow day with my kids indoors all day and it only took about 2.5 hours total. It was also easy to wipe the splatters off of the counters because i didnt prep in any way. Basically if i can do it with a sand bucket, a spatula, and a nail file- so can you. Will have to seal and update my review with that as well**UPDATE** after looking (WELL) into sealants i made the decision not to seal. I have no trouble with stains on my backsplash and SHOULD i get a splatter stain its just a matter of mixing a dime size amt of the cement & covering it up. I just decided to do the wall behind my fireplace. Also will not seal, and the more i do the more i learn. I did 2 coats (was going to let that be it) until it dried and i saw the inconsistency. Some parts were lighter some darker, depending on when i finished one batch and started a new. Its crucial to mix the same amt each time to get a consistent look. I found that equal parts of both water and cement worked best for me. I used a triangle trowel this time, and swept the cement in many directions just covering as much sq ft as possible. In some spots i used the trowels edge to "scrape", in some i used the back side to smoothe, some spots i pressed hard and some lightly. It was all done VERY differently but turned out great i think because i used the same amt of water/cement each time. Another tip would be, cover any bare spots u can while youre still working in that section, i made the mistake of going back even 5 min later to cover some white spots showing through, and when it dried there was clearly dark marks on the spots i touched up. So try to cover every blemish or bare spot WHILE you're still working in that area. Its hard to go back and touch up without it drying a different color (at least on your final coat)! *ALSO DID NOT SAND AT ALL FOR FIREPLACE WALL* sanding isnt completely necessary because you can get a smooth finish as you're cementing.

Awesome stuff! I used this to cover laminate. You have to mix it 2 parts powder to 1 part water. Don't pack the powder in your measuring up, fill it loosely so it's easy to mix and spread. MIX WELL. If doing a countertop redo, do not mix anything with this. Left intentional trowel marks for movement. It's not a 'black gray', it's a warm gray.

Used Ardex Feather Finish to make concrete countertops while we save up for Quartz. It works really well and is holding up well. It looks beautiful and the Ardex was easy to work with and sand.We created our countertop out of plywood and a 1x2 frame, then troweled on the Ardex. I did 3 layers and sanded between each layer. I then sealed it with an impregnator and waxed it.The countertop has patina'd a bit, which is and why I'd never want concrete countertops as my permanent countertop. It's a great in between option for now.

I did the whole Pinterest DIY concrete counters with this stuff and it worked great!! Love the counters. I sealed with a food safe sealant Miracle 511 sealant and then coated with a few coats of Safecoat Acyrlaq. They look great and are holding up well (the arcylaq is the key to keeping stains/water out).

We used this in our son's nursery for a cool concrete faux finish on one of the walls. It worked out great. We put on two skim coats and it looks like a poured concrete wall. We've very happy with the results.

I was scared to use it. I read and studied it for about 6 months. When I finally started, it was pretty easy. I love the results!