EternaBondRoofSeal White 4" x25' MicroSealant UV Stable RV Roof Seal Repair Tape | 35 mil Total Thickness - EB-RW040-25R - One-Step Durable, Waterproof and Airtight Sealant

This was very easy to use! I can tell it will work perfectly. Stuck to the roof with a secure snugness. I know this will solve our problem! Just don’t let sticky side touch the same sticky side . It will not release. Exceptional product. Watched an rv YouTuber before purchasing and that sealed the deal for me.

Patched a fiberglass roofs. Very easy to work with., adheres great and made the repair look professional.

Many have used this product to repair tears in their RV rubber roofs, Even on metal. As long as you follow instructions this product is outstanding as far as adhesion and protection for water intrusion. I bought several rolls in 2006 after purchasing a new travel trailer. I bought a quart of acetone to clean the surfaces that I applied the tape. I covered all the perimeter of the travel trailers roof.Generally the rubber is attached via the rain gutter. There are screws every few inches holding the rubber down and the gutter on. Im my mind, these are all potential leak points. As the saying goes, it's not if your RV leaks, but when. I experienced this with a prior RV even after diligent cleaning and caulking of seams. I did all edges and seams on the roof. All roof vents and even used a pieces underneath the crank up antenna.The product has held up outstanding for the 15 years it has been in place. No leaks.Here are some tips/ thoughts about the product and process;Do not over apply the acetone, just wipe the area and let dry.Once you pull the backing off the tape, be careful. The product sticks very very well.Use a J roller to roll the tape down after applying.Once down, you will not get it off easily.My method was to clean the inside of the guttter and the edge of the rubber roof, I applied the product inside the back edge of the gutter, to cover the screws, and then fold over onto the roof. roll it down.I did front and rear seams where metal siding meets rubber roof. I cannot see any of this work from the ground.I cannot think of anything one can do any better to protect roof seams, than using this product. I will do any trailer I may own in the future. It is not inexpensive, but it has done an outstanding job and no seams have loosened, torn, or failed. Very happy with this product.

UPDATE: It is March 2018. The eternabond has been on my trailer for about two years now and all the areas where I applied eternabond are holding up very well. No breaches or leaks. I have raised this rating from 4 to 5 stars because of how practical this stuff is.I have a 1999 Northwood Nash travel trailer. It has no leaks that I know of but I can see there are some parts of the roof, notably the front and rear seams and around the front and back corners that look problematic.I researched various ways to deal with this. Most pros would probably say to take the seam apart, etc., and reseal it. That's not realistic for me right now. There are no current leaks and I am looking to shore up these problematic old caulk jobs that look about ready to fail along the front and rear seams and near the gutter.I first looked at a lot of pictures at what other people had done with Eternabond tape. That helped. There was also a youtube video made by the Eternabond company about how to apply it. That also helped because it gave me the idea to use the utility knife. And to use my fingers instead of the roller. The guy in the Eternabond video uses his fingers to apply pressure (not the roller) and he uses a utility knife to cut the tape. There is not a lot of great info out there about using it but there are a lot of pictures and some decent youtube videos. None address the issue of lancing as well as they should in my opinion.Something else about the utility knife is important which is that it can be used to easily lance any air bubbles or "tents" that occur has you apply the Eternabond. Using you fingers to smoothly apply pressure helps to identify these air pockets that can be lanced so that the microsealant can fully apply. The Eternabond website says to use a pin to pop air bubbles and describes the procedure for what to do for "tenting" and I found that also very helpful. As it shows that where it tents or bubbles, the important thing is only to lance it and smooth it over and apply another layer if necessary or to make it prettier.I am totally new to this and could be doing it wrong so I'm just going to get to the pictures ...First I noticed the trouble spot by the back rear where the caulking was breaking down and this looked like an area where it was possible for water to pool. So I made this area a priority. It is around the gutter and the gutter and the rubber strip along the gutter are in very good shape so I didn't want to cover them up.I prepared and primed the area. (Disclosure: I have some Eternaprime brand primer on order but until then I decided to prime it the old fashioned way.) So I washed the area thoroughly with dishsoap until it was about as clean as it gets with dishsoap. then I marked the area lightly where I would be applying the tape and used a little sandpaper to rough up the area. then I quickly applied and wiped off some acetone over the area. this is especially good for priming the old caulk. it is good to expose a "sticky" layer of the old caulk which if you scrape or prime some away, does appear. Note that the acetone will remove the paint also off your trailer. then I pre-meaured the strips I was going to use and planned exactly where I would place them and pre-cut the strips. I took my time and used no strips longer than 8 inches. I find that more than that is difficult to handle and to focus on applying pressure on every little bit.When I applied the eternabond tape, I pretty much put it above where I wanted it (with back peeled off) and let it kind of fall into place by gravity as I guided it laying it as flat as possible. then when it was flat, I went about applying pressure from the middle out and working out all the tents and air bubbles and I pressed on the sealant. It was very helpful to have a clean and sharp utility knife to lance tents and air bubbles. You have to really be careful with that utility knife because remember if you go just a little bit too much, you will cut into your rubber roof. Nevertheless, I used one because it worked the best.*UPDATE: I got the eternaprime primer and it was by far the best way to prime the area for the tape.This is not a how to guide because I am not sure if I am doing this correctly but by using some logic and watching some videos about how to use this, it seems pretty good. In areas where I had to lance tents or air bubbles and more tape was needed, I simply applied more tape over that area as Eternabond says to do on their website.I used:pair of nice, sharp scissors to cut the tape (clean scissors as necessary with acetone if they get gunked)utility knife (clean with acetone if it gets gunked)acetone as described abovedishsoap as described abovemy fingers to press down to ensure surface adherence (not the roller)On purpose here I did not use the tape over the black rubber or the gutter because both are in good condition with no breaches so I wanted to leave them as-is.I plan to do the three other corners of the trailer and all along the front and rear seams although for going along the entire seam, I am going to wait for the Eternaprime. I wanted to get going with this corner just to see if it would be a viable method to deal with the deteriorating caulk around this area.