Logan Pro-framing F300-1 Studio Joiner

This is the first time I ever used a tool like this and when I simply followed the instructions it worked, but only a couple of issues that aren't too big of a deal, but could be implemented as improvements; 1. The "Molding Spacer" can be improved as all it does is elevate the Corner Clamp from the Base by 3/4" so the moldings aren't touching the Base. So, when you finally push the first V-nail into it, the miter edges of the molding will bend downward because there is no support underneath. A small rubber pad needs to be used to give that support. 2. There are only 2 "Levelers" included, but for large frames, a third "Leveler" needs to be used to prevent any bending at the far opposite corner.I completed a picture frame that was 64" x 42" where I had a make-shift leveler for the far end and I didn't use the Spacer, just a piece of rubber to not only protect the molding but to give it support for the V-nails. Once I did that, everything worked perfectly! When finished, this large frame was a perfect rectangle and solid!! This tool is definitely worth the money, but could use a couple of improvements however, it doesn't prevent you from getting perfectly squared frames.

For a do-it-yourself framer, this nailer is a pretty good option when joining your miters. Operation is fairly straightforward, and if you pay attention to the details, it drives the nails in pretty cleanly. The magnetic piston is really helpful for positioning the nails as well. You may find that you have to practice a bit to ensure that your nails are driven completely into the wood, but once you get the hang of it, it's easy.The size of the machine is a little restrictive though. The 45 degree clamp will hold stock up to 4 inches wide, but it can't accommodate the size of a larger frame effectively. Based on my experience, the largest frame I could get joined with this nailer is about 16x20. Anything larger, while it still will fit, becomes a bit unwieldy on the small base, even with the included spacers. Of course, that size does accommodate most framing jobs, so it's not too bad after all.Construction feels moderate: Not really flimsy, but not overly sturdy like you might expect from something like this. I do wish the base were a bit heavier, but all the mechanical pieces have not given me any issues.Do be careful with the miter clamp though. If your joints aren't perfect, tightening the clamp too much may pull them apart slightly when you go to nail it together. Overall, for under $100, and for my home shop, this works perfectly.

Product works as intended. Definitely will buy again.

I read a lot of reviews on this product that are negative. I experienced the same problems with this joiner as many of the others who are complaining. However, with practice, I find this to be a good product. Don't expect perfect corners immediately - it takes practice. Most of the complaints are that as you are pressing the V-nails into the back, the front is spreading, leaving a gap. The reason is lack of support under the frame, and there is a simple solution for this. Using two pieces of the same scrap frame material, make a simple corner joint, BUT MAKE IT BACKWARDS. The result is that you have a corner with a mirror image contour that you can put under your frame corner to provide overall support no matter where you put the V-nail. Using this method, I rarely use Logan's support bracket that comes with the joiner.Also, watch the calibration of your saw - you MUST check the 90 degree vertical and 45 degree miter angle of the saw with a carpenters square. It has to be perfect; these corners are super-sensitive to very small angle errors. Otherwise you will get joints with gaps no matter how good you are at using the joiner. Don't depend on your saw to remain calibrated forever. With use, it drifts. Check it often. I check mine every 50-75 cuts.And finally, use Logan's suggestion of coloring the edges of the joints with wood stain. It hides minor joint errors. I use a stain pen - it's easy to use and doesn't require opening a can of stain every time I want to join a corner.I've been using the joiner for roughly 6 months - I have no problems getting good joints.

This is a cleverly designed, well built tool that acts as both a corner clamp and V-nailer. If you follow the simple instructions carefully you'll see good results with this device. So far I've only had to clamp and fasten home-built frames made with rectangular stock, so shimming the pieces prior to nailing has not been necessary (it seems like that's where most folks have trouble). However, adjustable shims are provided for use with irregular stock. In fact, everything except glue was in the box, including two bags of soft-wood V-nails. This thing exceeded my expectations, and I recommend it.

Pure junk. The thumb screw that holds the wood pieces together stripped on the first use. It is also not good with textured molding for frame pieces and if you want to make a thick frame it doesn't do that well either. You're better off getting one of the bigger table top models for 20 or 30 bucks more but it will do the job better. I returned it after the thumb screw stripped out and wouldn't hold anymore

This product has an important fundamental flaw. It will not allow you to insert frames larger than 1-1/2" BETWEEN the two vertical posts. The posts are too closer together, therefore for frames larger than 1-1/2" you cannot insert the V nails more than 1-1/2" into the miter corner. You can use frames up to 2-1/2" BUT you will only be able to insert V nails about 1-1/2" inches into the miter. For frames larger than that you should use at least 3 or 4 V nails but this machine will not allow that.

I use a different clamp to hold the picture frame together while gluing then I use this to put the v nails in as it work really well for the nails. But not that great for pulling corners together.