NO-OX-ID A-Special- Electrical Contact Grease- Keeps Metals Free of Rust and Corrosion- Part# 10203

This stuff is great. I used it to protect a bus bar in electrical breaker box and slight brush stroke on the breaker where it meets the contact. Also clean the busbar where a breaker burnt it slightly. I also used it on my car battery posts when I changed a battery last month. Nonpetroleum product so you can use it for multiple projects. I even use it on my toenails to prevent fungus. LOL

Been waiting a few weeks before I write this review to see how NO-OX performed over time and I am ready to report that it works as promised. Have not had oxidation buildup on my silver-nickel tracks since I applied it correctly. But to reach this point I had to read and follow the suggested application procedure. The first time I was in a hurry to see if it worked and messed it up so I had to start over.The source for this procedure is in a PDF file that is an attachment on another PDF file in the MSDS (they call it SDS) section of the SanChem website. The proccedure is attributed to Gary.Here is the condensed version: (1) clean the track. You want bright and shiny bare metal when you are done. (2) apply a thin coat of the grease by dabbing your finger in the NO-OX-ID and rubbing it on the top of the track. You only need a little. Gary estimated that to do 500 ft of N scale track requires only a quarter of a spoonful. If you can see it on the rails then it is probably too much. (3) run all of your locomotives but not the cars, to get a thin coating of NO-OX-ID on the wheels because they carry current from the track to the motors so you don't have the oxidation build up on them. At this stage the drive wheels might spin some but not to worry. (4) gently wipe the rails with a cloth to remove any excess grease but not hard enough to remove it all. You want some to remain on the top of the rail. (5) wait 24 hours. You want to give the NO-OX-ID enough time to slowly spread out and leave behind a thin layer. NO-OX-ID seems to have some behaviors more typical of a coating. Now you are ready to run trains and not clean track. I am happy with the results but still trying to understand more of the chemistry and science behind it.

Throw away your Bright Boy or other abrasive cleaners. You won't need them anymore. Highly recommend this if you are into model trains. A very light coating (and I mean, LIGHT) on the rails will keep your trains running stall and stutter free for a very long time. Clean the rails well first and remove any existing dirt / oxidation and apply a little of this. (Note: Do NOT use alcohol to clean your track first as this is not good for electrical conduction....Google it) Use a soft cotton pad to keep working this onto the surface and sit back and enjoy. You should not feel any residual greasiness when done. If your traction wheels are slipping, you have too much. Wipe off the excess and try again. (it's a feel thing) Very happy this product is available. One jar should last you a lifetime.

I got some of this to try to protect a few surfaces where a dielectric would likely be bad (eg low clamp force connectors.) I was hoping it would be extremely conductive, but it seems it is only conductive in extremely thin amounts and works largely like a dielectric otherwise (eg having a very low viscosity such that it can be pushed out of the way of connectors.) That said, it does improve conductivity very well in very small quantities (so, for instance, if I push two leads of a multimeter into the material it reads too high resistance to show anything, but if I put tiny bits of it on the leads themselves, it greatly improves their actual connection quality making less force necessary to get them to read anything from a direct contact.)What I've learned so far with working with this is that it does its best work if you heat it up so that it flows. This gets it into all the little pores of the metal surface (yes, metals are loaded with pores and irregularities too tiny to see without a lot of magnification despite how smooth they might feel) and this is the key thing to protecting against corrosion more than anything else. Thus I'm able to melt some in, then very lightly wipe it off (so there's probably an incredibly thin film, but most of it is in those irregularities and pores where the protection is most needed as moisture can get in and stay.) I find that q-tips work beautifully for getting it where I want it and that light cleaning up afterwards.So far I've been using it on a lot of low power conductors such as 3.5mm TRS connectors. I found if I pulled the cotton almost all the way off of a q-tip I could even get some inside the female connectors (which I worry the most about as these are a weak link since you can easily change the male connectors but the female connectors are far harder or sometimes impossible to change.) Wax on, wax off. The connections seem to be a lot smoother and I believe will last far longer now. Plus I do still have a few things using RCA connections and I definitely found some signs of oxidation (so far just on the outside luckily,) so not a moment too soon to put this stuff on there...The ONLY thing I don't like about it is it doesn't handle terribly hot temperatures. I didn't find any exact specifications, but one person said 85 (I presume Fahrenheit?) which doesn't seem impossible to believe anyway. Certainly it melts into a nearly free flowing liquid very very quickly when I use a heat gun on it. This limits many potential applications where you risk that it could flow out. With something such as a coaxial screw-on connector, it would be fine even outside, but I'm a little leery of battery terminals (where I've heard people say that conductive greases have indeed been known to flow out under hot enough conditions.) I'll be trying for a while with dielectric everywhere around it but No-Ox inside the actual terminal connectors where conductivity matters most and I'll just have to wait and see. I wish it had a higher working range -- something that could stand working in at least reasonably hot conditions. It seems that's where you must use a dielectric grease instead though.

Nice product, very easy to use!

Works great on contacts of plug wires and tips of spark plugs, and even placed some on battery terminals.

Works as it should.

Bought this to clean the track on my HO Railroad layout...does the job....what more can you ask???