Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 4 Pound, White/Stone White

Best product, as an artist I find this product excellent

I started sculpting with polymer clay thirteen years ago. I loved how easy it was to work with, how you could color it and shade it and highlight it with chalk pastels, how it didn't really stick to anything. but I also had a lot of problems with it; it only cures in the oven so that limits what i can sculpt on, both based on size as well as material. I didn't like how acrylic paint dried on polymer clay, it always remained tacky unless you seal it, which still didn't always do the trick. it was also pretty fragile, which is probably my main complaint. I sell my sculptures, I can't have them falling apart on the drive home.so during all those years of primarily using polymer clay, I played with some other clays too. all, every single one, of the air dry clays i tried shrunk and cracked like heck in the drying process. also incredibly fragile, more so than polymer clay.I started making my own paper clay, which was fun and extremely sturdy. so so so so sturdy. but I could never get it 100% smooth. there was always some texture to it. which is great for some things, but not everything.i love pottery clay, but I don't have a kiln and there aren't any for rent in my area.a youtuber that i follow, who use to only use polymer clay, posted a new video using Aves Apoxy Sculpt. she did a little review and it sounds too good to be true.I can sculpt on anything i want? it doesn't shrink or crack? it's super duper strong? it takes to paint perfectly?I was sold.my review is even more glowing. this clay was such a magical find and I'll probably be using it forever. i love that it sticks to anything, that I can put it in the oven at low temp to cure liquid polymer clay with the Apoxy, that i don't need a primer or sealant for acrylic or guauche paints, that is doesn't break easily at all.although it's pretty dang close, it's not perfect.this one, the "sculpt", gives you 2 ish hours to work with it (depending a little on the temperature of your home). that's not that much time. it's okay though, all you have to do is plan ahead of time which part of your sculpture needs to be done first, and just complete that, or even just the base of that. and then second, third, etc. just an extra step.the second thing I would say is it's a medium amount harder to work with than polymer clay. it's pretty sticky, so it sticks to your hands and any surface that's not silicone. it's also really soft at first, doesn't hold itself up. if i were sculpting a horse head onto the body of the horse, it would droop and hand down like a sad little bab. so parts of your project like that, wait about an hour for the clay to harden up a bit.overall, magic.

Great stuff. Limited only by your imagination.

I used this to repatch a major door dent. I did not want to use a more widely available product that is used for repatching automobiles due to the high volatile organic compound (VOC) that is harmful to breathing and general exposure, plus I had to do the patchwork inside a building. Before purchasing, I kept thinking that it might have a slight odor similar to two part epoxy or superglue, but it didn't even have that. There's very little odor at all, if any.The key to using this to repatch is having a spray bottle to wet the surface of the epoxy clay. If you don't, the clay is so sticky that it becomes impossible to mold or sculpt in a smooth manner. Once sprayed, the clay feels and sculpts almost like real clay. In order to get a smooth, flat finish, I used a spare plastic gift card to smooth the wet surface. After a few passes, the surface starts to become sticky again and needs more water. But with plenty of spraying, you can smooth it down fairly well. If you are sculpting an art project by hand, it's easy to start out blocking in the shapes, but the more you use it the more residue gets on your hands, which can cause the clay to stick to your hand as you continue to sculpt, leaving more sticky texture. You can remedy this with the spray bottle, re-smoothing, etc.The drying time is very generous. After about 90 minutes, the clay was still very soft, but had changed enough where it would bead up a bit if I still tried to smooth it out. 90 minutes is an eternity and plenty of time to sculpt compared to the other stuff. After 5 hours, I could still make indentations and it felt like old/hard sculpey/fimo clay. After 10 hours, it became like rock.The consistency of the dried clay reminded me of soap stone or baked sculpey/fimo clay. You could carve detail into it with an exacto knife, chisel, or rasp. Lots of opportunity for fine carving.I used sandpaper to sand it down before priming and repainting the area and the dried clay sanded down smoothly--no cracking or flaking.I used this on a metal door, but it'll stick to just about anything...wood, plastic, paper, etc.Clean up was easy...just rubbed my hands under water to dissolve the clay and rewashed again with dish soap. I can't vouch for the effects of skin exposure, which is why I washed my hands carefully afterwards.I was very impressed with this stuff and glad to have stumbled upon it instead of going the high-VOC route! If you are wary of breathing in toxic fumes from other commercial products for repatching, this is the way to go.