Reliable Hardware Company RH-4-SRR-A Rack Rail, Black

Awesome stuff. I have made several DIY wooden racks with this stuff now, and it makes every project easy-peasy. Just place your boards with exactly 19" between them (pro-tip: use an actual piece of rack gear to measure the spacing), place this rail in, and screw it in. The attachment holes are dual sized, so it will work with whatever screw size you have, and you can stagger the screw locations so they don't run into the neighbor.The rails are rugged, the threads are great, the build-quality is awesome. And they are sold in pairs, so don't order twice as many as you need like I keep doing.

exactly what i needed to mount my 4-space midi patch bay into the BACK of my rack case.i have a patch bay with the I/O on the front, which would mean a mess of unsightly totally-in-the-way midi cables sticking out the front of the case had i mounted it along with my synths (and take up valuable rack space)popped this thing into the back side of the rack case and mounted the patch bay right in. good, solid construction and all the holes are where they should be lolbasically you can add a rack mount anywhere you might need to using these, as they come in a variety of lengths!

If you have moderate woodworking skill—you can build an open-sided box—then these rails will let you build your own 19" EIA rack to suit. A lot of heavy-duty computing and networking gear uses the standard EIA mounting pattern provided by these brackets, but actual EIA racks are expensive. If you just want to rackmount a few switches and some wire management for your home, these rails are an incredibly economical alternative. (If you're planning to mount servers, you'll probably want to look for a better solution that uses square holes for captive nuts and/or tool-less brackets; servers are better attached using the beefier M6 screws, not 11/32".)I had no problem inserting standard 10/32" rack screws into these rails. I did NOT need to tap them to remove excess paint, as some others have said.

Very solid product. I am building studio racks out of hard wood, and they are a prefect fit. 4 star rating because a few of the tapped holes were either not tapped or poorly tapped. With very little effort, the screws were able to be inserted with out having to re tap. Bought second set, will buy more. Solid paint job. Thick metal. No joke.

Not a whole lot to say, but they worked great for a rack build. They are thick and handle a good amount of weight absolutely no problem!

Great product, am going to buy more. Much less expensive that another brand. Despite a negative review here these are obviously CNC drilled and taped and there is no variance.

I recently decided to go full-on home wired LAN, and not being one to half-a$$ things, built a small networking rack. The 4u rails were perfect for my setup. There was some powder coating in the threads, but that is to be expected and running a screw in and out a couple times got the holes cleared out nicely.

These things are junk. The holes are not properly threaded. The description says it uses 10-32 thread screws. So I went on amazon and found some nice 10-32 screws - Gator Cases GRW-SCRW025 Rack Screws - 25 Pack but when I tried to screw them in, they dont go. They start threading, but the further in they go, the harder they get to turn. I tried several screws in the pack, on several different holes, but none of them worked. I thought maybe one of them was described wrong on the amazon product description and maybe used a different thread count, but when I pull the screws out, I don't see any evidence of cross threading. The threads on both the screw and the rails seemed to be perfectly intact.I was wondering if it was the rails or the screw that was defective. So I went to my hardware draw and found a packet of 10-32 screws and nuts. The above Gator screws threads into the nut perfectly, but the bolt gets stuck in the rails just the same way the Gator screws do.I don't actually own a tap and die kit, so I thought maybe I could just take the bolt, grip it with vice grips for leverage, and force it through. I figured if I did that it would clear whatever paint/powdercoat residue may be gumming it up. But what actually happened was that the bolt SNAPPED OFF in the rail. That's how bad these thread are. See the attached picture