4K 120Hz HDMI 2.1 Splitter 8K 60Hz 1 in2 out VRR ALLM HDCP2.3 HDR10 8KUHD D-olby Vision Atmos Scaler 4K EDID 1080P Dual Monitors HDMI 2.1 Splitter 1X2 for PS5 SkyQ Xbox NVIDIA AMD

I had an issue getting an ASUS CU4K30 capture box working with a Coolermaster Tempest GP27U monitor so I decided to buy this HDMI splitter device in hope I could workaround the issue, and it certainly did work.My PS5 is connected to this splitter, then the main output goes to the monitor, and the second output to the capture box. In terms of lag, I can't notice any. Interestingly using this splitter seems to bypass HDCP, meaning if HDCP is enabled on the PS5 the capture box is still able to capture the signal. The device is quite small, built well but does run a bit warm. Probably best to place it somewhere neutral, eg not behind a PS5 exhaust vent. I do feel this device is a bit on the pricey side but it works well and I would buy it again if needed.

Before getting stuck into the product review, I need to let you know that I had a LOT of problems with this splitter. Worse, the EZCOO product support consisted of very short and basic responses, so it took 13 days before I could properly use the splitter. I got it working in the end, with most of the diagnostics being done on my end. The first unit I received was faulty on OUT1 socket, which I didn't know until after EZCOO sent a replacement to me on day 10. The real problem that existed on both the faulty unit and the working unit was that VRR (AMD FreeSync) didn't work with my monitor but it worked with my capture card, which was idiotic because I wanted this splitter so I could duplicate a fullscreen application to 2 identical monitors. I will explain how to fix that issue at the end of my review. Keep reading!So, the product itself comes in a long thin box which is perfect for Amazon deliveries because it will fit inside the smallest package and be able to fit through your letterbox. Great! Inside the box is the splitter device, which is very small and looks and feels like a professional piece of gear. Also included is a USB-C power cable which can be connected to a wall plug adaptor or powered by most PC motherboard USB sockets. I have not tried any other USB sockets, but they should also work. Basic instructions are provided on a small folded piece of paper, and there's also a pin tool to help put the device into update mode.On one side of the splitter there is a single source HDMI socket for your PC, console, or other device and a DIP switch which allows you to control the EDID setting of the signal that will output from the HDMI outputs on the other side. EDID is the display information that a device sends to another device so they can make a proper connection with the correct resolution, refresh rate etc. The default setting will be fine for most people, but the splitter essentially allows you to override certain parts of the display information to solve compatibility issues.On the other side of the splitter there are 2 destination HDMI sockets to connect your TV, monitor, capture card etc. There is also another DIP switch which allows you to downscale your source signal to 1080p, so if your source was 4K and you had a 4K screen connected to OUT1 and a 1080p screen connected to OUT2, you could use both at the same time by setting scaler switch 2 to ON without worrying about any other settings on your screen.In default mode (all EDID switch set to 0) the OUT2 signal is copied from the screen connected to OUT1, so if you had a 4K TV connected to OUT1 and a 1080p monitor connected to OUT2, you might have problems unless you use the scaler switch because the splitter will otherwise try to apply the display information from OUT1 to OUT2 and that would obviously be wrong and probably fail to connect the monitor on OUT2.If you're connecting 1 screen and sending a copy to a capture card then it's important that your screen is connected to OUT1. I personally have an Elgato 4K60 Pro MK2 with VRR firmware update that I sometimes use to record footage. That capture card has no problem being detected, so connect it to OUT2 and make sure your screen is connected to OUT1 because you want your monitor to be copied to the capture card, not the other way around. This is possibly the same set up with other capture cards.I had VRR enabled on my PC before I bought the splitter and it was working fine. Once I connected this splitter, it showed up as not supported. I use 1080p 120 Hz monitors. My HDMI cables were short and high quality, all able to handle VRR when the splitter wasn't connected. I spoke with EZCOO support but they just didn't understand anything that I was asking, and gave bogus answers such as "Dear Customer, Pixel format set YUV444" which had nothing to do with the problem. I don't think their support agent reads / speaks English very well, which is devastating because this product has lots of potential ways to fail, so they need a good support agent who actually understands what's being asked of them. To their credit, the agent never gave up and was always friendly, but when you spend £80 on a device that doesn't work within a few minutes of connecting all the cables and then their support give you broken answers... you feel cheated.As I said at the beginning of the review, it took 13 days to get this splitter working on my set up and the final thing needed to get VRR working was a correct incoming EDID. If your exact resolution and refresh rate are not available as part of the listed EDID on Windows then even though you can mix and match the resolution and refresh rate and your monitor will work fine without that exact EDID being available, if you connect the splitter then it doesn't know what to do with that EDID list because the exact settings it wants to use are not available, so it just does its best and unfortunately its best for me was 1080p 120 Hz without VRR.In order to get VRR working, I had to use a tool called Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) and set up the correct EDID that the splitter expects. CRU is something I've used over the years to correct things like graphics card memory running at high speed in dual monitor mode when it doesn't need to, or changing the display frequency so that a certain refresh rate could be used without any issues. I had a feeling this tool might be able to help me here and it did. The most recent version covers every part of the EDID you'll need and so you're able to add your exact resolution to all possible connection methods your PC might deliver. In my case, all I had to do was add 1920 x 1080 with 120 Hz refresh rate to 3 sections of the EDID, save it and then run the included restart64.exe to get my graphics driver to recognise the changes. After I did that, VRR worked immediately. I've added an image to my review that shows what I did on CRU to help anyone who has the same issue and wants to try it. I also sent this image and details of my solution to EZCOO in case someone else contacts them about it in future.All in all, this splitter is a great device but it has some quirks and I feel like a firmware update might be needed to automatically handle some edge cases like mine instead of forcing customers to jump through very large and complicated technical hoops to get something working that should just work as soon as you plug it in. I don't think there's anything wrong with the price, EZCOO just needs to work on their product description and product support because I doubt most people would have endured the madness described here to get this device to work.UPDATE: I bought a new monitor that is HDMI 2.0 but my old monitor was HDMI 1.4b and this seemed to cause issues. The problem was that my AMD Software was seeing the monitor as FreeSync Premium compatible but also saying it was not supported like before.I noticed that EZCOO released a firmware update for this HDMI splitter towards the end of 2024, so I updated the firmware before doing anything else. This changed nothing. FreeSync Premium was still not supported. I then checked the CRU tool that helped me fix my original problem and noticed the CTA-861 section was classed as HDMI 2.0 on my new monitor rather than just HDMI as it was on my old monitor. I tried messing around with different resolutions like before but it didn't solve the issue.What actually worked was deleting the whole CTA-861 section and recreating it with TV resolution, HDMI support, and FreeSync range sections with the same specifications as my new monitor. This seems incorrect because my GPU and monitor are both HDMI 2.0 compatible and what I just described would create a HDMI 1.x compatible extension block, but it worked. After saving the monitor profile and using restart64.exe to apply the changes, the FreeSync Premium option was gone from my AMD software and replaced with a VRR option instead.In case you're wondering... FreeSync Premium is a vendor specific variable refresh rate implementation whereas VRR is the vendor agnostic implementation. I'm not sure why VRR works but FreeSync Premium doesn't, all I know at this point is that some form of variable refresh rate is now working on my system, as confirmed by my capture card software which dynamically updates the refresh rate whenever it changes.

My son has started streaming from his PC and PS5. He has his PS5 connected to a capture card in his PC, which then passes the signal through to the monitor. The issue with this is that the PC has to be on to use the PS5.....not great when most of the time he's playing but not streaming.This device allowed me to split the PS5 signal to go to the monitor and PC separately. It worked out of the box, I didn't have to change any of the little dip switches. It passes through 120hz with VRR and HDR perfectly. It also removes HDCP, not a feature the seller would probably want to advertise!

This offered everything I needed in a splitter, plenty of edid options and downscaling. It let arc passthrough and cec worked, even stripped hdcp. The serious problem I had though is I had two units and I had to return both because they were faulty. The picture dropped out and sound went wonky. For the amount they charge for these the quality is poor. I'll have to look elsewhere.

ok, i bought this so that i could still use with my Hue 2.0 box. My PlayStation connected to my Sony tv uses VRR and ALLM with 120htz my Philips Hue is just out of date with no such pass through features and i dont want to spend £299 for a new sync box. I had read the reviews and someone said they had used this for their sync box so thought i would give this a try, even though the more expensive version of this more people have used. After lots of messing around with the dip switches, i have finally found the best solution and it looks like it’s all working and my hue sync box now works with my lightstrip again. For anyone who is looking for a good option to use with PlayStation and hue sync box 2.0 this is it. All you need to do(after lots of messing around) is turn the 2nd dip switch down on the two on the front, this should be labelled HDMI2 1080p, this still gives then 4K and everything else to my Sony tv and the sync works fine. The only thing i need to do now is start the sync on my app which takes 30 seconds, its a very small inconvenience but has saved me £250 on a new box

It takes time to figure the right settings etc but when on for long periods it does get hot which is worrying. I ain’t quite sure it’s worth the money maybe £50 ish. Picture seems to be ok. I had no main issues with performance however as mentioned gets rather hot

computer goes into this box, this box goes to two lg oled 4k'sboth screens outputting 4k 120hzhaven't tested the other EDID's but when I do I'll update the review. delighted I bought this. exactly what I wanted